Sunday, August 15, 2010

And home again

8/15/10 8:30am

Just a brief post, as I am jet-lagged and busy unpacking... I returned safely from India yesterday afternoon. It was a long journey, and I still have a lot to think about and learn from it!

I'll be writing more in the coming days because like I said, even though I'm home I still have a lot to reflect on.

Thanks for all your well-wishes and prayers during my journey to keep me safe. They definitely worked.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Goodbye to India!

Well, this is going to be the last entry I'll post from India. In a couple hours we're going to the airport, arriving with plenty of time to go through security and check our bags and all that. Then, as I've probably mentioned, there's a flight to Frankfurt, a 7-hour-or-so layover there, and another flight to Philadelphia. I hope to be home by dinnertime on Saturday!

India has been truly wonderful, and I think that as time passes, I will continue to reflect on the experiences I had here and they will prove to be a wealth of knowledge. I know that this experience has made me a better teacher and a better person. I hope I have positively affected the lives of the Indian students and teachers I met along the way. I also expect that my experiences will have a positive impact on my own colleagues and students.

Last night, a few of us got mehendi. I got it on my hands and feet- and it looks great. It was a fun experience! The person applying it puts the designs on your hands and feet, then you have to let it dry for a couple hours. When it's dry you apply coconut oil, let it sink in, wait a bit longer, scrape off the excess, and then apply lemon juice and more oil. It darkened overnight and should stay on my hands and feet for a few days. Yesterday was a holiday, so that meant a lot of the mehendi people were busy and unavailable, so we were lucky to find two people who would come to the hotel room and do it- otherwise, you're sitting outside waiting for the henna to dry or trying to make it back to the hotel without using your hands! I got some sweets and snacks, and it was a good time.

Today, it's been packing and hanging at the hotel with a break to go over to the salon and get a facial. My one suitcase weighs 48 pounds, and my second duffel bag weighs about 30. I'd estimate my carry-on is about 15-20, meaning yes, I am carrying almost 100 pounds of STUFF back home. I unfortunately had to leave some shoes and clothes behind, which I feel is a bit wasteful, but if I hadn't done that I wouldn't have been able to bring home all the gifts the teachers at my school gave me! I mean, I can buy another pair of running shoes at home, but gifts cannot be replaced.

So, here I go, signing off from India. I'm hoping for a safe and uneventful journey, filled with lots of sleep and good airplane movies. Wish me luck!

Thursday, August 12, 2010

This one says it all...



This picture says it all!

Latest Batch of Photos!

Last day!

8/12/10 6pm

Today was a very bittersweet day for me at KV No. 2, filled with many surprises and tons of love. I received so many gifts from the teachers, and had kids coming up to me all day asking for my autograph and giving me small tokens of affection, like pens and homemade cards. I don't think that I can really put into words how much today meant to me- but suffice to say, I have never had an experience like I did today and probably never will again.

I was able to address the whole school this morning during morning assembly, and I hope I expressed my gratitude adequately. The school community, from the very beginning, treated me like a member of the family and I felt at home right away. The teachers were all so nice, especially the ladies, and the students have all been so sweet and loving and inquisitive, if a little shy. I told the students that I hoped that they learned from the experience of having me around, and that I learned from them too. In fact, I probably learned more than I was able to teach. I encouraged them to continue to work hard and in all their endeavors and be kind and compassionate to others, and show everyone they meet the same kindness that they have showed me.

The day was a blur- I went to my regular classes and did a little bit of teaching, but mostly I got pulled from classroom to classroom meeting with classes for a few minutes at a time. I really felt like a celebrity and even kids I hadn't met before said how much they were going to miss me. It was really cute!

The teachers threw a little surprise party for me- everybody got called into the library after school and we had pakoras, sweets, and chai. I didn't expect such a to-do, but the teachers and administrators were all coming up and making speeches about how much they enjoyed having me, and I got some nice gifts that everybody chipped in to get me. Everyone said the most wonderful things: how I fit right in and never seemed like an outsider to them; how much they loved that I wore Indian clothing to school; what a great teacher I am; how friendly and cheerful I am; how excited they were to bring me food every day; how I have such wonderful values… it was amazing and wonderful. The principal also described me as "perfect" which was quite flattering! I have never before had the experience of people saying so many nice things to me at one time and being so genuinely appreciative.

Teachers don't usually get any glory, and I am not used to being the center of attention, so being here in India and having so much positive feedback and praise lavished on me has been a totally new experience. The school appreciated me immensely just for being there and talking with them, and I am not used to people being so excited just to have me around. It has been a month of living almost like a celebrity- staying in a fancy hotel, getting driven around, room service, so much appreciation and smiles from everyone constantly- being treated this way, how could anyone NOT come off as a friendly and happy person?

But alas, all good things must come to an end, and so I look forward to my last evening in India. A mehendi artist is coming to our hotel to jazz up our hands and feet with lovely henna designs. Although mehendi is traditionally done just before a wedding, it is acceptable to have it done to mark a special occasion, and I cannot think of an occasion more special than coming home from this 5 week journey. Since it's best not to move or sweat for a couple hours after mehendi, so that the henna really looks sharp and lasts a long time, I am glad that we won't have to venture out to do it. As you can imagine, India is extremely hot and humid and just the act of stepping outside to walk to the convenience store next to the hotel leaves you dripping with sweat! So, any opportunity to avoid that is a good thing.

And then tomorrow night we go to the airport for a 2am flight. Yeah, I've never taken a flight that leaves at 2am but apparently that's how they do things here. We'll be taking off from the new "T3" at Indira Gandhi International Airport- there's been a lot of hullabaloo about it in the papers because there are still some things that haven't gotten worked out- for example, none of the counters have land lines to other terminals in the airport. The terminal has been open for about 2-3 weeks, and it seems that international travelers aren't facing the same amounts of problems as domestic travelers who have to make international connections- or something like that. Anyway, I'll be traveling for about 24 hours, approximately 7 of which will be spent at the Frankfurt airport. It's going to feel so great to get home!

This month has really flown by. I've had mostly good times and a couple difficult moments where I felt homesick and lonely. (Not to mention the abuse my digestive system has been subjected to.) It's hard to leave behind everything and everyone you know and go halfway around the world not knowing what's going to happen or what to expect. But I did it. And this trip, really, has made me a different and a better person. I am so lucky to have been given this opportunity, and I can't wait to get home to share my experiences with everyone.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

DONE shopping!

8/11/10 4pm

There's not a whole lot to report from New Delhi. It's not like things are boring, or that I'm not busy- I guess it's just that I am exhausted from this whirlwind of a month. If I were more alert, I could think about writing a long philosophical entry about everything I learned on this trip, but I haven't figured all of that out yet, so I think I'll procrastinate on that entry. Besides, we haven't left India yet- so that means there are still things to learn!

Anyway, my presentations are over and now there are just a few things left on the agenda. One of them WAS finishing my shopping. I went to Sarojini Nagar Market again and bought a cheapo duffel bag plus some more scarves and a couple tops and about 80 million bangles. I'm glad to have gotten that last shopping trip out of the way. I was into the shopping for a while, but I've actually gotten kind of sick of it. After a while everything starts to look the same, and I start to feel overwhelmed. I like that everything in India is so inexpensive, but that makes it all too tempting to get stuff you wouldn't ordinarily get because "who knows when I'll be here again!" So, I hope I didn't err too much in that direction.

Another item on today's agenda is a celebration. Today is Christopher's birthday, so we are going to celebrate that tonight in place of our last weekly meeting. I'm very much looking forward to some good times!!! Who knows what the night will bring?

Tomorrow is my last day teaching at KV No. 2 and I am sad about it because the experience has been so wonderful through and through. I have gotten really attached to the teachers there and they have really taken me under their wings and treated me like family. And I love the students- they are so sweet, affectionate, and curious. My Philadelphia learners will always be #1 in my heart, but these KV kids are a close second! After school tomorrow they are hosting a small party for me with samosas, chai, and sweets. I will also speak at morning assembly so I can formally thank the school for having me and teaching me so much. I am so thankful for having been given this opportunity- it is going to be really difficult to put my gratitude into words.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Power Cuts

8/9/10 5pm

This morning I gave a presentation to a group of English teachers from KV schools around Delhi. I'll be giving a similar talk on Wednesday to a group of teachers at my own school, so it was nice to only have to prepare one presentation. It feels like forever since I was at my host school (it was actually last Thursday) and let me tell you, I am extremely excited to get back there tomorrow… especially since our last day is Thursday!

The one thing I forgot regarding this presentation was that in India, the power goes out fairly regularly for minutes or hours at a time. This is all well and good until you are in the middle of a PowerPoint presentation and both the power and the backup generators stop working… which is what happened to me today! But really, it's not like things were ruined by any stretch. I was able to finish saying what I needed to say (forgot a few minor points, but oh well) and from the feedback I received from the teachers to whom I was presenting, it was a success.

But oh, the heat.

We don't have this kind of heat and humidity in the States, and while I have made major strides in putting up with it, I still don't feel adjusted to it completely. This is the kind of weather that makes it hard to climb a flight of stairs without getting winded, where your clothes stick to you, where drops of sweat roll down your back, where you sweat in places you don't normally sweat like your knees and the tops of your feet. And today it was bad, worse than usual, to the point where during my (hopefully last) souvenir and gift buying excursion I actually felt my heart pounding because my blood pressure had risen. So I gave up officially on trying to find something for Jason's dad (that man is impossible to buy for unless you are in Cabela's) and headed back to the air conditioned comforts of my hotel room. And consider myself lucky because a lot of people in this city don't have nice places to go, let alone air-conditioned ones.

I'm pretty tired from the heat plus the three late nights in a row I've had, so I am going to take this opportunity to enjoy some room service for dinner and get to bed early. Not a whole lot going on tomorrow, but on Wednesday the end-of-India whirlwind begins with some birthday celebrations and other festivities. At some point I need to figure out what size bag I need to buy to lug all the stuff I've bought home- this was part of my plan, and I really should have taken care of this sooner- now I'm stressing about it because I procrastinated!

I am also taking some time tonight for making a list of foods I want Jason to have on hand when I get home. There are things I miss, such as our homemade burritos, blueberries, raw vegetables, salad, American Diet Coke (it IS different here), the tomato pie from the bakery across the street, and grapefruit juice. I know he really misses me and can't wait for me to get home so I need to have *something* to occupy his time. After all, it's been a whole month that we've been gone!

A Temple with Rides?

8/8/10 7pm

As a whole and on average, I would say that Indian people are more religious and spiritual than American people. And I would be really surprised if anybody disagrees with that. Indian people tend to spend more time than Americans observing their religion, and it seems to play a significant role in their everyday lives. Here in Delhi, as in most of India, the majority of people are Hindu, but Hinduism has many different flavors and so everybody's personal observance seems to be unique. So needless to say, there are all kinds of temples here and I've been to a couple during my stay here.

I really enjoy the role religion and spirituality play in daily life here. Every auto rickshaw, taxi, and business has in it at least one image of the proprietor's favorite deity or religious figure. Vegetarianism is taken very seriously here; in fact, in order to be respectful to those who are highly offended by meat, the teachers at my school are only allowed to bring vegetarian food into the building. There are all sorts of festivals and religious observances going on all the time, and so many things are seen to be auspicious: Tuesdays, for example, or certain plants, or being left-handed. And I know there is a lot of tension between Hindus and Muslims on a macro level, but I haven't heard anybody say anything negative about another religious group during my entire stay here. It seems that there is an acknowledgment that although the practices and deities and specifics might be different, everybody has the same goal in mind and the same core values. When I see (for example) Hindu people speaking so tolerantly of others because they acknowledge that we all pray to the same God, it makes me sad that the reality of life is that so many wars are fought over religion. There are a lot of things I don't understand in this world, and fighting about religion is one of them!

But I want to tell you about where 4 of us visited on Saturday afternoon. The most exciting temple I have ever been to: Akshardham Temple, built by followers of the saint Swami Narayan who lived in the early 1800s. And I say that it was the most exciting because it is part house of worship and part theme park. Yes, theme park. There are three "rides" plus the temple plus a snack bar plus a gift shop plus night-time fountain show with laser lights plus numerous places to have a souvenir photo taken (I did not partake, because the finished results, frankly, looked Photoshopped and fake.) We spent about 4 hours there yesterday and got to see it all!

I'm sure readers of my blog would be most interested to know about the rides. The first ride was a multi-room presentation of Swami Narayan's life and teachings. Basically, his teachings were of nonviolence, compassion, vegetarianism, and service… and apparently theme parks in his honor. As we walked from room to room in the exhibition, a booming voice narrated and Animatronic figures blinked and moved their arms stiffly. It was entertaining and informative…. And most important, it was very nicely air conditioned.

The second ride was actually an IMAX movie about Swami Narayan's life. The audio was extremely loud as well, and we were given headphones that gave the English translation. Again, we saw brought to life the story of Swami Narayan's life plus some information on the mission work the group does today, which seems pretty extensive and beneficial. There were some very melodramatic moments in the movie, which made me giggle.

But the third ride was my favorite. It was actually a ten minute boat ride illustrating the history of India. It was very similar in format to the Pirates of the Caribbean, with things to see around every bend in the "river." The big thing that the ride was trying to communicate was that all the important mathematical, scientific, medical, philosophical, spiritual, humanitarian, etc concepts were discovered in India thousands of years before they were discovered in the West. It was very patriotic towards India, as you can imagine. The patriotic part at the end really reminded me of It's a Small World.

After the rides, we actually went to the temple. Outside the complex there was an Abishek hall where we were given holy water to pour over a small deity. This was to make wishes come true and for general good fortune. I'm hoping for safe travels home, continued good luck, and the health of my family and loved ones, so I'll do pretty much anything that will bring me good luck! Then, on to the temple hall. The whole complex was built recently, so rather than the other temples I've been to, which are fairly old, this one was brand new. The temple was really beautiful and contained an enormous statue of Swami Narayan surrounded by jewels and beautiful carvings. All around the circular room were Hindu deities and illustrations of Swami Narayan's life. There were also some relics from Swami Narayan, like his shoes, prayer beads, that stuff. It was interesting to be in a temple whose central glorification point was a person, while the actual deities were off to the side. And it made me wonder if the real Swami Narayan, who professed to be a humble servant of God, would agree with how "his" temple was set up. Just like how some people wonder how Jesus would feel about how Christianity has evolved. The parallel is very interesting to me.

We got back from the temple around 9, and so Beth and I had a late dinner out in Khan Market. Let me tell you, it is SO nice to have an "all-you-need" spot within walking distance! We went to this place that we had visited when we first arrived, and had some delicious Chinese food. Chinese food is really popular here in Delhi (and maybe in the whole of India?) and all of the Chinese I've eaten over the course of this trip has been great. I can't quite put my finger on the differences between American Chinese and Indian Chinese- but there are differences in seasoning, presentation, and choice of dishes for sure.

Today I went over to Jantar Mantar, an outdoor observatory built in the early 1700s in order to study the heavens. There were all sorts of large stone and concrete structures that you could climb around on, which measured different things, like the time and the date, solar angles and all that stuff. Reading the inscriptions on the structures, I learned that the site had been revamped in the early 20th century and a renewed effort began about a year ago to maintain it- suffice to say, it probably looked very different when it was built! But speaking of the sun, I was only there for about 20 minutes because it was WAY too hot to be outside. If I knew a bit more about astronomy or science, I probably would have gotten more out of it- but it was impressive nonetheless. It always amazes me how much people can figure out about the world through careful observation and measurement!

Off to another late dinner in a bit, and tomorrow I'm giving a presentation to a group of English teachers at a different KV school. I finished the PowerPoint earlier today and it includes the following topics: basics about the American educational system, information about SOTF and how we do things, a case study of Project-Based Learning using my Poetry project as an example, and some pictures of my school and my learners… all through the theme of "A Typical Day in The Future." I'll be giving essentially the same presentation on Wednesday, but at my host school. Now that I think about it, I've never really given a formal presentation to adults before (other than the 10-minute PowerPoint I give about myself on Back-to-School Night!) but I'm not really nervous. After all, why should I get nervous about talking about what I do every single day of my normal life?

The past two weeks or so, I've really felt like I've gotten the hang of India and feel comfortable getting here and there and dealing with the everyday. I have taken up certain Hindi expressions and a couple typically-Indian hand gestures. There are things I've come to expect, like that auto drivers are always going to try to talk you into going anywhere except where you told them you want to go and that at every eating establishment the vegetarian items are clearly labeled. I've also really gotten used to having someone else make my bed and clean my bathroom every day and bring me breakfast! It will be quite an adjustment to return to the States and my everyday responsibilities and routines. Where I won't have time to read the paper every day but I will be able to watch all of the TV I've missed during the last month. I've been hearing that "reverse culture shock" is more difficult and jarring than actual culture shock- and I'm doing what I can in these last days to mentally prepare for the return home.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Adventures and New Mates

Yesterday Beth, Diane, and I went over to the Taj Mahal pool for some much-needed relaxation. The sky was clear for once, the sun was out, and it was very hot but the pool was perfectly refreshing. We arrived there around 4:30, and a really nice Australian guy named Phil struck up a conversation with me and Beth. We sat in the pool and talked for hours, enjoying a couple cocktails, and comparing cultures. Eventually, Phil's girlfriend Jackie joined us. They both work for the Department of Defense, and have spent a lot of time traveling and living abroad for work, so they had a lot of interesting stories.

Americans definitely don't travel to faraway places like people from other countries do, that's for sure. I've been to a bunch of places, and so have most of my friends, but did you know that fewer than 20% of Americans hold passports? I guess things are just different in America- not only do we have less time off work than people in other countries, but also, the cost of living in America is so high. I've usually had the time but not the money- the only reason why I'm here this summer is that my expenses are paid by someone else and I can afford not to teach summer school or take a summer job!

But I digress. As it happens, it was Phil and Jackie's last night in Delhi and they wanted to go out for a nice dinner, and they invited us along with them! Around 9pm we parted ways to dash back to the hotel and get ready, and then we met them back at the Taj Mahal, where they had a driver to take us over to the restaurant, and a reservation. Pretty sweet!

We went to a restaurant called Bukhara, which is still well-known for being the place President Clinton ate at three times when he visited India ten years ago. It's in a posh hotel- the InterContinental- and it was quite exciting. The restaurant is traditional Indian kebab, which I'd never had before, and it was delicious. If I tried to describe it, I would fail, but I ate a ton of delicious food last night. It was so enjoyable, as was the company; my most expensive meal in Delhi so far and it was completely worth every rupee! If you are ever in Delhi you must try Bukhara.

Around 1am we got back to the hotel and I felt completely relaxed and refreshed and got a good night's sleep. Of course, I'm used to waking up around 5:30 or 5:45 to get to school by the time it starts at 7, so even sleeping until 8:30 this morning seemed like a luxury beyond compare.

I've been putzing around the hotel all day- going to drop off my laundry (I told a little white lie- that I was leaving on Wednesday- so that I could be sure to get it back on time!) and working out at the gym and putting together a PowerPoint and watching TV and reading… it's been very relaxing, but also somewhat productive. In a little while, some of us are going to Akshardham Temple, a Hindu temple with a laser light show and rides. Yes, rides.

Not sure what the evening will bring but I do know I will have some sort of adventure, as long as my good luck continues to hold out.

Cheers to my new "mates" Jackie and Phil!

Friday, August 6, 2010

Auto adventures

Last night our group was invited to a farewell dinner to honor the Fulbright-Hays fellows who are heading to the airport today. It was nice to meet other Americans- some of them were even from my area, so we were able to exchange contact information- and hear about their trip. What an experience! For the past 4 or 5 weeks these Elementary school teachers have been on a whirlwind tour of India, visiting several different cities and learning about different cultural traditions in all the various regions of the country. They have had the opportunity to visit a variety of schools as well. After they return home, they will submit curriculum units written with the intention of teaching their students about the culture of India. Fulbright-Hays runs a number of programs in a variety of countries, and somebody told me that the list for next year includes Argentina and Vietnam. It sounds like an amazing experience!

We also met a bunch of Fulbright-Nehru scholars who just finished a month of intensive Hindi training. They are all recent college graduates who will be acting as English teaching assistants for the next 8 months in various schools in Delhi. I talked to one guy from Philadelphia who, as it happens, knows my ex boyfriend's nephew. So that was weird. It always pays to play the "Do you know So-and-So?" game! The world is quite small. I wasn't sure whether I was going to have fun at this dinner or whether it was going to be some kind of boring formal event with a bunch of dull speeches, but I think we all ended up having a blast. It was nice to intermingle with all these interesting people and hear about their experiences. I was sorry that we didn't have more time with them, but I did exchange contact info with a couple folks so we'll see about a stateside gathering.

My days at KV No. 2 are drawing to a close, and the time I had is even less than I thought it would be due to missing time there for presentations and demonstration lessons at other schools. So, today we were granted leave from our regular schools to visit a Navyug School. The Navyug Schools are a network of government funded schools which cater to low-income students who demonstrate academic potential. The school we visited was small by Indian standards (about 550 students) and provided lunch (known here as "mid-day meal") free of charge to students.

I taught a class of 7th graders about the William Carlos Williams poem "This is just to say." This poem is one of my all-time favorites and my American students have invariably responded well to it, so I thought I would try out the lesson on an Indian classroom. I am happy to say that it went quite well- though the students were quiet and shy at first, they gradually warmed up to me and became engaged in the writing activity. I am really looking forward to reading their poems in detail and sharing them next year when I teach the poem during our poetry unit!

We also got shown around the school and definitely the highlight was watching a judo class. Yes, judo. These kids were dropping the judo thunder on each other like nothing I have ever seen. I took a lot of pictures, don't worry. It completely took me by surprise- as this is the first phys ed activity I've seen in my time here. I saw the music and art rooms, special project rooms, and other school facilities. The school was quiet and clean and the students very well-behaved. Walking around the building it seemed like every aspect of what they do during the day was to encourage their students' growth academically, socially, personally, and culturally.

On the way back to the hotel, our auto rickshaw broke down. It just sort of kept stalling out and the driver had to rock it back and forth with his feet to get going again. Eventually, the driver got out a couple times to try to fix whatever was wrong with some wire (I couldn't really see what he was doing) and then gave up. It was sort of a combination of Fred Flinstone and McGyver with unsuccessful results. I have had pretty rotten auto luck lately- maybe I should just stick to the reliable (but much more expensive) taxis for the next week. Autos are fun and all but.... sometimes such a hassle!

Anyway, speaking of reliable transportation, I'll be taking advantage of the complimentary car service and heading over to the Taj Mahal hotel in a couple of hours for some much needed relaxation.

As for the weekend, it's our last in India and I can't believe it. It's nearly impossible to believe that four weeks ago today I left Philadelphia to travel to DC for orientation. I have learned so much, and I know that I will continue to learn during my last week here. But to be honest, I am just about ready to come home- I miss my house, my cats, and most importantly my many loved ones!

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

The best cooks in India...

Before embarking on this program we were told several times to be flexible. I am now getting several opportunities to be this way. For one, the date and time for one of my presentations has changed twice in the past 24 hours, and for two, as for the demo lesson I am giving on Friday, I am supposed to be given a topic but haven't yet. I kind of figured this would happen at some point or another so none of this is truly a surprise.

These last minute changes are certainly not worth worrying about. I'm going to do a lesson on poetry, a lesson I've taught several times before to all different groups of American students with great success, so I am confident that will go quite well. And as for the presentation, I'll throw a PowerPoint and some notes together over the weekend. I only feel bad because I've had to ask the Vice Principal at my school three separate times for permission to be absent from my host school, and I know my Vice Principal is very busy with other more important things.

This is sort of how India is. Things tend to change at the last minute and often it's hard to get a straight answer from anybody. It is sort of frustrating for someone like me- I am a planner and like having things settled and absolutely hate any kind of uncertainty when it comes to the itinerary. Perhaps my coming to India, where things are the way they are, is an opportunity to step out of my comfort zone and let fate handle things.

I spent some time in the "Gents Staff Room" today talking with the male teachers about the American educational system. It was very interesting to hear their questions. They wanted to know about how well-informed American students are about current events, and I had to admit that I don't think most American teenagers pay attention to the news. On the contrary, the students I've met in India heavily follow Indian politics and world events and have strong opinions on everything. I thought it was sort of a universal thing to be self-centered as a teenager, to not care to look beyond your own experiences, so seeing other types of kids is a very nice learning experience for me. The "gents" also wanted to know about teachers' level of esteem in America and whether women find teachers acceptable grooms. (I didn't ask whether any of these men were married, mind you). But since I hadn't spent any time in the Gents room until today, it was nice to have that experience and everybody was really sweet and curious to know all sorts of things. I only wish we had had more time to talk- the bell rang and everybody was scattered in different directions to teach.

Last night Beth and I went over to Safdarjung Enclave, where one of her teacher friends, Shalini, lives. To make a long story short, Shalini did a 6 month Fulbright exchange with this woman Breanna, who did the program last year with Beth. I met Breanna when I was in DC for the pre-trip orientation a few weeks ago. Anyway, Beth and I had been wanting stainless steel ware: I wanted some tiffins and she wanted some dishes. Shalini had some free time and knew of a good place right in her neighborhood, so we met her at her place and made it all happen.

So I didn't get the exact tiffins I was looking for, but I am happy with my purchases. In addition to a couple nesting tiffins, I got some small and large plates, some little bowls for soup, some littler bowls for pickle or chutney, and a thali. High quality, great prices, how could I go wrong?

This trip has really inspired me to want to learn more about different types of cooking. I love to cook and can follow a recipe, but I'm completely ignorant when it comes to any type of traditional cuisine. I'm interested in learning the principles, techniques, and theories behind different types of Indian cooking- and there are many different types! I'm hoping to pick up some books on this when I get home- not just cookbooks, but books that go into detail about techniques and why certain ingredients are preferred over others in certain regions of India.

But perhaps the REAL reason why I want to learn more about Indian cooking is that I have eaten some of the best food in the world over the past few days. And it hasn't come from 5 star restaurants. It has come from the kitchens of the teachers at my school! Now that they actually believe what I've been telling them since we met- that I love Indian food- a few of the ladies have been bringing food for me. Not "have a bite of this" (which had been happening all along) but "I made you this tiffin." So today I probably ate enough for 4 meals, within the space of a couple hours. I thought I would burst but any pounds gained on this trip will be from lovingly prepared delicious Indian food given to me by caring and wonderful people- just another souvenir!

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Success!

8/3/10 3pm

Just a short entry as I'm headed out to get some stainless still ware (tiffins and such) in a few minutes.

I had some souvenir-buying success yesterday at Dilli Haat, the wonderful craft market I hope to have time to return to before going back to Philadelphia. I had been searching high and low for some perfect gifts and found some! But in the interest of having things be a surprise, I am not going to reveal my purchases.

I'm starting to receive emails from SOTF about plans for the upcoming year. I'm so immersed in India that it's strange to read them and think about what the next school year will bring, but I guess it's high time I make some mental notes considering I'll be home in less than two weeks and starting PD shortly thereafter. Although I love being here in India, I have really been missing my home school, my team of educators, and my learners. From the emails, I know that some big changes are ahead, and I am excited about what I can learn from it all. Notice I didn't say I was excited about the changes- because I don't know enough at this point, and there always seem to be pros and cons of every change. Working in Philadelphia you kind of learn quickly to weather the changes and hope for the best... and I think aspects of next year are sort of going to be like that. But like I said, it's too early to tell.

But the big news (for someone like me who gets very anxious about air travel and making connecting flights) is that I have rebooked my return trip so that I can fly directly from Frankfurt to Philadelphia, bypassing Dulles. This means I only have one connection to make instead of two, and the one layover is nice and long so even if my flight out of Delhi gets a bit delayed (as it might, considering they just opened a new international terminal that is fraught with snags) I will have nothing to worry about. I'll only get home an hour earlier but the convenience and peace of mind is worth the extra fees!

Off to get some tiffins!

Monday, August 2, 2010

Once Upon a Time in Hindi

8/2/10 3:30pm

I know everybody is talking about how great Inception is, and maybe I will see that when I'm here, but I am so glad Beth and I went to see Once Upon a Time in Mumbaai yesterday! As it happens, Bollywood films are actually fairly easy to follow without subtitles. The plot was chronological (for the most part) and straightforward, with really great music and when it comes out on DVD in America I would like to see it again (this time with subtitles of course)!

Going to the movies in India is a lot of fun. The theater we went to had assigned seats and a snack bar with actual food, no candy, and everything was actually affordable (we spent about $10 US each on our ticket plus a snack and soda). There's an intermission halfway through the movie, too. The picture quality and sound were both excellent. However, one thing remained essentially the same: people talking on their cell phones and texting during the movie! Other than those brief conversations, though, there wasn't really the kind of talking and yelling you can encounter sometimes at the movies in Philadelphia.

I've had incredible luck with the weather, specifically the rain. Last night as soon as we got into our auto it started pouring, and then by the time we got back to the hotel about 15 minutes later the rain had stopped. I got splashed a little bit because auto rickshaws are open on the sides, but it wasn't anything ridiculous.

The big story in the newspaper here is that the city of Delhi is not going to be ready to host the Commonwealth Games in October. It seems that nearly every construction project is behind schedule and all the agencies are blaming each other about whose fault that is. Today I woke up to read about yet another building that was leaking, showing pictures of water pouring down from the ceiling of some room- and the official who was questioned about it actually said that it wasn't actually a leak, it was a part of the building plan: a "rainwater collection system" that would make the building more eco-friendly! I thought this was pretty entertaining and worth sharing- it just goes to show that wherever you are in the world, when there is a problem everybody wants to cast blame on somebody else, and everybody wants to spin it their way.

Today at school, the monkey made another appearance. He was on the terrace during morning assembly and I couldn't stop laughing. I thought the principal was going to yell at me or something in front of all the students but maybe he gave me a reprieve because I'm a foreigner. When we got back into the building and the ladies' staff room, we noticed that he had knocked over a bunch of stuff and eaten some food. He made a couple small messes and luckily it wasn't a huge deal. Monkeys are so commonplace here that they are viewed as annoying pests, but like I wrote when I first got here, I can't help but see them as mischievous little people! I don't think that conception is going to change by the time I leave. But this monkey in particular has been kind of a problem at the school because he is always lurking around, and given that the school is all open-air, he can kind of get wherever he wants to get if he thinks hard enough about it.

Also, yesterday was Friendship Day, and I got friendship bracelets from some students, plus a card. I thought it was really sweet of these kids to give me presents that their friends had obviously given them. I am constantly amazed at the generosity of the people I meet here. Like all the small tokens of appreciation and affection I've received during my time here, I will certainly treasure these forever.

Going to a craft market in a bit, hopefully to pick up some nice gifts for people (including myself). I have a couple things on my list but of course, I'm open to all the possibilities that I'm sure to encounter! I've heard great things about this particular spot, and I love picking out presents for people so it's sure to be a great time.

This week will be a busy one. Wednesday we have our weekly meeting, and then Thursday I'll be sharing in an hour-long presentation to other KV teachers about education and teaching strategies in America. On Thursday night, we are attending a fancy dinner to honor a group of Fulbright Scholars, and then on Friday I'll be teaching a demonstration lesson at a magnet school. Mind you, I haven't started preparing for either presentation. And then it'll be our last weekend in India; I'll have two days off, which will surely be full of more shopping, sightseeing, and maybe some preliminary packing (so I can see how big of a second suitcase I need to buy). Hard to believe: the next week of my life is already all planned out and it's only Monday- I'm certainly not this busy most of the time when I'm in Philadelphia. But I'm glad to be given so many opportunities to interact with other teachers here, and well, I'll get to sleep on the plane.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Reggae Rajahs

8/1/10 2pm

Yesterday I was supposed to have my laundry delivered to me here at the hotel. I'd been hand-washing and re-wearing (um, mostly the latter, I'll admit) for three weeks but given the humidity here, things just weren't quite getting dry. But the hotel laundry is exorbitant: about $1.50 to wash ONE PAIR of underwear. Are you kidding me? So, I found a laundry spot around the corner and dropped my stuff off Wednesday. And they were supposed to deliver it "after 6:30" yesterday (this seemed like a long time to me) but what does that really mean?

Around 8 I started getting nervous and called the number on the receipt. Of course, they spoke exactly zero English, except to say "wrong number" and hang up. Thank goodness for the Taj Ambassador- they called the number for me, were re-directed to another number, got some address where my clean laundry was, and then they actually sent someone over (with my money) to pay for and pick up my laundry.

About 20 minutes later the doorbell to my room rang and there it was. Everything was individually wrapped in plastic and each item was labeled with a tracking number. The tshirts had cardboard backing and were folded perfectly. My kurtis were all on hangers and had been nicely ironed. My old and raggedy pajama pants were even on a hanger. Don't worry, I took pictures.

So although it was a bit of a headache and took days longer than I would expect it to, I couldn't get over how everything was so perfectly folded and wrapped and packaged that I definitely plan on sending my stuff there again when it's time. What an experience. India is full of wonders.

Anyway, then Beth and I went out and met up with our friends Akshat and Param. We had a late dinner and then went over to Cafe Oz to see the "Reggae Rajahs." These guys were not very good DJ's and I am not a fan of reggae by any means but it was a totally hilarious experience because it was all these people trying to be Jamaican in the middle of India. I really, really, really, REALLY wish I had brought my camera with me- but I don't even know if pictures would capture the ridiculousness of the setting. Even better than the setting or the "music"- the place was full of young white American/European hippies. With dreads. And backpacks. And attitudes. I remember being a young white worldwide tourist, and seeing their energy and silliness made me nostalgic for my time on Semester at Sea. At the same time it made me so thankful to be older and wiser! It was a good evening and we didn't get back to the hotel until after 1am.

Today is my ONE day off and I enjoyed the opportunity to sleep in! The fact that there was a giant thunderstorm this morning really helped me not feel guilty about my decision not to get up and do sightseeing. I skipped the hotel breakfast and went to the gym for a workout, appreciating the sensation of wearing clean workout clothes. Had McDonald's for lunch- the Paneer Salsa Wrap was AMAZING- and now I'm doing my internet hour before I return to my book.

It's Friendship Day, too, which means, um, I guess people are celebrating friendship. I'm not sure where this holiday originated but apparently it's very popular here, to the point where kids are actually allowed to wear their Friendship Day bracelets to school- ordinarily something like this would be forbidden because it's not part of the uniform. Friendship Day also means that StarWorld, one of the English channels we get here at the hotel, is having a Friends marathon.

Later today I'm going to the movies to see "Once Upon a Time in Mumbai" which is a new and popular movie. In Hindi. Going to the movies in India is apparently quite different from going in America, so I am looking forward to the experience. A few people from our group have been to the movies to see American movies but I would much rather have the true Indian experience- after all, I can see Inception and Twilight Eclipse when I get back home!

But about the movie, I went down to the lobby a few minutes ago to ask which was the closest movie theater, figuring that I would just go early and get tickets- and it's ending up that the hotel is sending a car over to buy our tickets early in case the show sells out (Sunday is the big movie day here in Delhi I guess). What's with the hotel doing all this nice stuff for us? First my laundry and now the movie tickets- they really do go out of their way here to make sure you are comfortable and that everything works out accordingly. I will certainly miss all the things they have done for me and our group to ensure we have a comfortable experience here. Considering the chaos of Delhi and of India in general, the Taj Ambassador is a welcome oasis.

Well, there's a long list of things I'm missing and can't wait to return to (like having ice in my drinks) but the list of things I will miss a whole lot is of almost equal length. Still, there's no place like home- and despite the wonderful time I'm having, I am already looking forward to getting there.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

School visit and more

7/31/10 5pm

We had an incredibly busy day yesterday and I didn't get home until fairly late- and by then I was both exhausted and relaxed- so that's why I didn't get around to posting an update.

Yesterday was quite an exciting day! We were granted leave from our regular KV host schools to visit a school run by Deepalaya, an NGO that has a number of projects and initiatives going to empower people and communities in India. The organization has been around for over 30 years and their school was a really wonderful place. It seemed to me like the Indian equivalent of a charter school (except it was run without any public funding). They receive their funds from the NGO and from donors and grants, and charge very nominal fees to the students; when students' families have a difficult time paying, the organization helps their families find gainful employment so that they can not only pay their expenses, but become self-sufficient in a sustainable way. I really liked their philosophy, and I wish I could have learned more. Thankfully, we were given information packets by the Principal plus I hear they have an excellent website- so whenever I get around to looking at that, I'm sure I'll be ready to make a donation- and so will you!

Anyway, we spent a good amount of time with the principal, had a tour of the school, met one of the founders, and most important, taught demonstration lessons in teams to classes of actual students. Our lesson was on poetry, and there were three of us working together to read, interpret, and respond to poetry. I won't bore you with the details, but it was an enlightening experience to hear the students' interpretation of the poem. The math teachers and the science teachers had equally successful lessons. Given that we didn't know much about the students or their prior knowledge before walking into the classroom, I think we did admirably- and this is great practice for me because in just over a month I'll be getting acquainted with the Class of 2014!

I definitely noticed some similarities between my host school and the NGO school. Not having spent much time in either school I can't say whether one was more effective than the other. But I suppose comparing KV No. 2 to Deepalaya School would be like comparing apples to oranges, as each school has a vastly different mission and caters to a vastly different community. Either way, it is an invaluable experience to see that just as in America, there is no such thing as a "typical Indian school"- each has its own personality. Next week we'll be visiting another school to teach another demo lesson, and that will undoubtedly give me an even better picture of the variety within the Indian educational system. I'm really thankful to have all these opportunities!

We spent the afternoon touring the Presidential Palace- the Indian version of the White House. One of our group members, David, works with someone who has great connections, so we were able to get an invite. Only 200-500 people visit the palace each day, and there are tour guides that take each group around. The palace was built during the British Raj when the rest of New Delhi was constructed. It is quite impressive and conveys a sense of power and prestige without being opulent or posh. We saw life-size portraits of all the British folks who held important posts during the Raj, gifts given to India by other countries (a wide variety!), old photographs, paintings of important historical events, and a couple contemporary works by Indian artists. We also saw the ballroom, which had a stunning ceiling mural of animals, people, and flowers- words can't describe it. We saw the place where Indian independence was declared at midnight on August 15, 1947, and we also saw the dining room which is decorated with swords and more paintings of dignitaries, and has a table that seats 104 people. The British Prime Minister was just there, and there were people bustling around cleaning up the place as we walked through. Finally, we saw the Mughal Gardens, which were more French/British in style than Indian. It was sort of like Versailles, on a smaller scale. We weren't able to bring in cameras, unfortunately.

As soon as we got back to the hotel, some of us decided that it was high time for a visit to the Taj Mahal hotel for a swim. I hadn't been there yet, so I was delighted to go. Because our hotel doesn't have a pool itself, we are allowed to take a free car over there (it's about 5-10 minutes away) to use the facilities. And boy, we did. The pool is enormous and luxurious, and they also have a spa area with a jacuzzi, steam room, and sauna. Plus really nice showers. We ordered some poolside cocktails and had dinner there as well- kinda pricey but why not? I really felt like I was on vacation! It was such a relaxing way to spend an evening after a day of having to be on point, and it's something I will repeat as much as I can before I go back to the good old USA!

This morning, it was up early for a day at school. Yes, many schools in India run 6 days a week! The teachers are always quick to remind you that they have the second Saturday of each month off and work fewer hours each day- but still! I don't think I could handle that schedule. Because the students are in the middle of exams (Philly teachers: think Benchmarks… in every class… and the teachers have to grade them all by hand!) the class schedule was not the normal one, so I didn't actually end up teaching any classes. However, I spent some time talking with the teachers about cultural differences between India and America, and got some reading done. I also watched the teachers do the monthly reconciliation of their roll books, which is something quite familiar to us in Philadelphia! I'm telling you, once you get over the initial superficial differences there is so much alike between my home school and my host school!

Just as students were being dismissed, the power went out and the school was plunged into darkness for about 45 minutes. There was a pretty serious thunderstorm going on with very strong rains and winds and it was very dark outside. Exciting!!! I was glad it happened during the day and when I was safe inside, and it was over soon enough. By the time I left school a couple hours later it was only raining lightly, and now a few hours later it has stopped completely. So far this has been our third big rainstorm in as many weeks, and the rainstorms are quite a spectacle to behold! I hope for a couple more before we head back to the states.

After the official school day was over, I attended the staff meeting. Staff meetings in India are a little bit different (assuming this one was a typical meeting) in that it was just administrators talking about certain problems at the school and other issues, without input or questions from the staff. At SOTF, all we do during staff meetings (sometimes) is debate- so this was quite a different experience! The whole thing was in Hindi, so I understood not a word of it- luckily my cooperating teacher was next to me taking notes in English so I peeked over her shoulder every now and then to see what they were talking about.

Then there was a series of speeches and songs from teachers to honor a teacher who is retiring. In India, teachers retire when they turn 60, and so this was a very special day. This teacher, Mrs. Thakur, is very sweet and wonderful and kind and loving, and I will never forget that she took care of me at school one day when I wasn't feeling well by giving me a banana that settled my stomach right away. Her three children and two grandchildren were there to participate in the festivities, and I was able to talk to them a bit and let them know how many wonderful things their mom had to say about them, and how nicely she treated me during my time at the school. Unfortunately, all of the farewell speeches and songs were in Hindi, so I really had no idea what people were saying, but I could get sort of an idea from the periodic translations from my cooperating teacher plus people's facial expressions.

After the lunch, I came back to the hotel and was feeling a bit overwhelmed by the hours of Hindi I had just endured. I went over to the market after a short nap to buy some books, and unless something else comes up I plan to spend some time reading this evening. I may or may not go out, we'll see, and as tomorrow is my only day off this week I will savor the opportunity to sleep past 6am!

The days are really flying by, and I'm thankful to be experiencing so many interesting and exciting things. I'm not sure what tomorrow will bring, but I'm sure it'll be a blast.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Pictures!

Click here to see all the pictures I've taken so far- it looks like I've figured out how to sort them so they should be in the correct chronological order. I haven't gotten around to captioning them yet because it's kind of a pain with Picasa (which I thought would be easy).

Tomorrow we're teaching demonstration lessons at another local school, by subject group. I'll be working with the two other English teachers in our group to teach a lesson about poetry!

For those folks too lazy to click, here is one picture of me at the Taj Mahal. I took it myself:

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

The Taj Mahal etc.

7/28/10 5pm

A disjointed description of our trip to Agra follows:

First and foremost, the Taj Mahal. It's going to sound like a cliché to say this, but there really aren't words to describe how beautiful and magnificent it is. And pictures don't capture it, at all. But I took lots of them anyway because when I look at them, I'll be able to remember in my mind's eye what I saw. I don't remember feeling in such awe of it when I saw it in 2000, so I suppose I'm now older and wiser!

The full moon viewing was really neat. Security was quite tight- a couple sets of metal detectors and full-body patdowns, and we weren't able to take ANYTHING in except our cameras- and the tickets were issued specially in our names only. We could only go inside the gate- about 200 yards from the Taj itself. There were armed guards everywhere and they only allow 30 to a group, for 30 minutes at a time. So it is a privilege to get tickets, and I am thankful we could! Unfortunately… I didn't get to see moonlight glistening off the marble domes- it was a bit cloudy- but what a rare treat to be there when it was completely empty and quiet! The Taj Mahal itself loomed off in the distance, lit only by the moon, almost a ghostly presence. As I gazed at it, I pictured what it might have looked like if it had been a clear sky. I pictured the full moon gleaming off the clouds, the stars above, and glistening marble. Very breathtaking!

Then we went back to the Taj in the morning. We left the hotel at 5:30 so we could be there at 6 when the Taj opens. This served three great purposes: the heat wasn't so bad, it wasn't crowded, and best of all, the light was wonderful. As the sun rose higher in the sky, the color of the Taj Mahal changes. It went from a cool gray, to a buttery yellow, to a gleaming white. I was so lucky to be able to witness this! Again, words don't really describe it. Anyway, we walked around the grounds, took a lot of pictures, made comments about the wardrobes of all the tourists there. Apparently MC Hammer pants are a big trend amongst the European backpackers. Should I try to score a pair?

The other sightseeing component of the trip was an excursion to Fatehpur Sikri. It's basically an abandoned palace and mosque complex that was built and inhabited a couple hundred years ago by one of the Mughals. It was distinctly different from the other monuments I've seen so far- it reminded me a lot of the Forbidden City in Beijing (which I also visited in 2000) and there were lots of interesting nooks and crannies to explore, and our tour guide was very knowledgeable about the purposes of the various areas we went through. Additionally, we went to the mosque area which also has Chittri's tomb. The inside of the tomb was quite spectacularly painted with flowers and the marble had gorgeous inlay- if it looks this beautiful in 2010 I can't even imagine how it must have looked when it was first built. Anyway- there's a tradition at the tomb to tie a thread around the marble lattice that serves as a window into the tomb, and make a wish. I am a sucker for things like this so naturally, I got some thread from the guy there and made my wish very earnestly. (If you want to learn more about Fatehpur Sikri just check out this Wikipedia page as a starting point: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatehpur_Sikri).

Also, the hotel was really nice, and instead of doing some more sightseeing I opted to stay back and get a spa treatment. My treatment was called a Spice Rub. It consisted of about 30 minutes of me being vigorously scrubbed with warm oil mixed with spices, followed by about 15 minutes wrapped in warm towels soaking it all in. The spices used were things like cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, things like that. It was relaxing and invigorating at the same time, and afterwards I felt wonderful! What am I going to do when I get back to the US and can't afford these frequent luxurious beauty treatments? Well, maybe I can get enough of them while I'm here that I get sick of them? Think that will work?

But perhaps the most interesting part of the trip was the drive there and back. It was about 6 hours each way, in a very luxurious and spacious mini-bus that had great air conditioning. Like I said in my earlier entry, it was totally different than taking a road trip in the US in that it was all on what you would consider back roads or rural/state/county highways. We passed by numerous Dhabas- outdoor restaurants with attached inns- and through many small towns. We also saw a bit of rural life: cows, pigs, goats, and people in the fields. Every stretch of road had something new and exciting to see, and in between little catnaps I just looked out the window trying to take it all in. I saw and elephant and a camel, even.

You know how there is that stereotype about cows being everywhere in India? Well, outside the cities it's basically true. Families keep cows for a certain number of years (until they can no longer produce milk) and then let them go, at which point they essentially become stray animals because it is illegal in India to kill a cow. Fortunately, within the Circle of Life that is India, the cows still serve a purpose: since there's no formal organized garbage collection in most of India, the cows (and pigs, and other stray animals) take care of consuming things like food scraps, and their dung is a great fuel. Not the system we are used to in the US- but a system nonetheless!

Anyway, now I am back to my normal routine of school in the morning followed by miscellaneous stuff in the afternoon and an early bedtime. Today I actually had to do errands: take laundry to the cleaners, pick up my new Salwar Kameez, and go to the ATM. I also went to the gym. So I am maintaining a pretty busy schedule I guess- and the time is flying by. In just over two weeks I'll be on my way home- hard to believe! There are still a couple places I would like to visit, but, now that I have seen the Taj Mahal (again) it seems like everything else would just pale in comparison. I plan to visit Jantar Mantar (an observatory, which is supposed to be really cool) and hoping to make it to Akshardham Temple. Both of these places have been highly recommended to me by guidebooks, people, and the students at my host school, so I know they are well worth the time and effort! The other place I plan to check out is a crafts bazaar called Dilli Haat. You know, for gifts.

Well I've just spent over an hour writing this blog entry and still have so much to say- but I will have to leave that for another time, as my internet time is almost up.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Back from Agra

So in the past hour I have either spoken with or g-chatted with about 6 people who have said that they love reading my blog! This is wonderful to hear. I really miss everybody I left behind when I came to India, so knowing that people read this blog helps me feel connected to the folks on the other side of the world.

Anyway, I am completely exhausted (and probably incoherent) from the trip to Agra, and will probably go to bed early tonight, but let me tell you that the excursion was amazing and I will definitely write a more detailed post tomorrow.

The Taj Mahal was absolutely gorgeous and awe-inspiring. There is no way anybody could take a picture or put into words what it is actually like to be there and experience it with your own eyes. We saw it at night, and then again just after sunrise, and though I have already been there (on Semester at Sea, in October 2000) it was still just as amazing, or perhaps more so, the second time around.

But the most interesting part of the trip was the 6 hour drive between Delhi and Agra. Sitting in the comfort of an air-conditioned and quite roomy bus, I watched the countryside go by, passing through small towns and rural villages. It's not like in the States where everywhere you go is on an expressway and it all looks the same... there were interesting things to look at the ENTIRE way.

India is such a land of interesting contrasts. There are the wealthy, and there are the extremely poor. No violence towards cows is allowed, but literally every day I open the Times of India to read stories about honor killings. And this is how things are here. The list goes on and on. It is absolutely fascinating and thought-provoking.

But right now I am way too tired to think- and it's back to school tomorrow! Pictures coming soon! I miss you all!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Long post about the second half of my weekend

7/25/10 9pm

As I sit here Sunday evening while enjoying my room service dinner (swanky, I know, but I'm exhausted and busy packing for my trip) I can't believe we've come to the end of the third weekend of this wonderful journey. I know I sound like a broken record when I say that every moment of the day I'm learning something new about all sorts of things- but it's the truth. I thought I was going to write a long entry tonight and post it, but I figured I would treat myself to another hour of internet access because, why not.

The second half of my weekend was quite interesting. Beth and I met up with Akshat, a friend of a friend of a friend (something like that) and HIS friend for what turned out to be an evening full of adventure! Akshat is a doctor, and he is busy working for the anti-doping branch of the upcoming Commonwealth Games. So basically his job is to inform athletes that they are going to be drug-tested and then usher them through the process. Sounds like quite an exciting job, right? His friend, whose name I never caught, is the assistant to some top brass guy in the Indian Army. He has spent time in a bunch of different locations: Iraq, Israel, and more, and is currently stationed in Delhi. These two guys have known each other since they were little kids in school, and throughout the evening it was wonderful to see the affection and high regard they have for each other. They were also very friendly and hospitable- but then, aren't all the Indian people I've met?

We started off the evening with coffee, spent some time trying to figure out where to eat, and then abandoned the idea of dinner altogether to go for drinks at this nightclub called RPM, located in the "hip" Vasant Vihar neighborhood of New Delhi. Guys, you know me- you know that going to loud clubs with DJ music is not my cup of tea- so I embraced the opportunity to do something I don't ordinarily do. The DJ was great and played a good variety of songs that are apparently popular in India plus songs that are apparently popular in the US. There were people dancing like crazy. It was almost like being in the middle of a Bollywood video, I guess that's the only way to describe it to someone who has never set foot in an Indian nightclub. When I got home after 1am, after quite an exciting drive through the quiet night-time streets of the city, I was totally beat. Beth and the guys got a bite to eat at our hotel's 24 hour restaurant but I didn't think I would be able to stay awake through that!

Which brings us to today. I woke up wondering what I would do and thinking that it would be fun to try some solo sightseeing because I hadn't done that yet. I took a look at my map of Delhi and decided I'd be able to see a couple temples in one shot: the Lotus Temple and the ISKCON Temple. Outside the hotel gates, I was lucky to encounter Mr. Kumar, who ended up being my tour guide for a couple hours- and this was great!

He did the thing that a lot of auto drivers and taxi drivers like to do, which is to take you to places where you can shop in addition to the stops you have already specified. So the first place we went was a higher-end textiles and crafts market, where I purchased some gifts for folks at home. The prices were higher than what I have grown used to paying, but nonetheless I still feel like I got some good deals! Salespeople in India are so funny- always unabashedly trying to talk you into buying multiple items or things you have not expressed interest in. They will literally show you every single item in their store unless you draw the line! Americans, I think, are used to being very polite and saying "I'm not interested" in indirect ways, and I have found this does not work in India. You have to know what you want, and get in and out and be firm without being rude. Otherwise, you'll end up over budget, or buying multiple items because you feel indecisive, which is what happened to me at this particular store. So, be firm, that is my shopping tip for India.

After my first shopping stop, Mr. Kumar took me to the Lotus Temple. The Lotus Temple is a beautiful landmark of New Delhi, on a nicely maintained landscaped campus- the building is actually shaped like a giant lotus and it's one of the world centers of the Baha'I faith. Inside the temple are simple benches you can sit on, and there is no talking allowed inside, just sitting and thinking. It was peaceful and serene. On the way out I got a brochure about Baha'I but I haven't read it yet, so I guess if you want to know more about Baha'I you'll have to find out yourself.

Then, another shopping trip. This time I actually limited myself to things that have been on my gift list, plus one thing I have been planning to get for the house (not telling!!!!). I was in and out of there in about ten minutes and then finally got to visit the ISKCON Temple! Unfortunately Mr. Kumar said we could only stay 30 minutes because of some kind of parking situation, and at that point I didn't want to argue because it was getting to be the heat of the day. I regret not being more insistent on staying because I could have spent hours there! It's in a beautiful complex that contains the Vedic Expo (which to my knowledge is a multimedia show, complete with a talking robot, about the Hare Krishna philosophy) plus there's a restaurant and a book and gift shop. I went into the temple room to see the deities, which were supposed to be out according to the information I had looked up, but unfortunately they were not. However, there were some devotees chanting and it was a pleasant atmosphere so I enjoyed it for as long as possible before hopping back into the auto rickshaw and coming back to the hotel.

I thought I was in for the day, but after the heat of the day passed, Beth and I ended up going over to Jama Masjid in Old Delhi. Jama Masjid is a mosque built a few hundred years ago and it sort of looks like the Taj Mahal but made out of sandstone and on a much smaller scale.

But I should back up and describe our ride there. So, the auto drivers… sometimes they are not as nice as Mr. Kumar. Sometimes they do not speak a lick of English. And sometimes they decide that they suddenly need to refill their CNG canister (CNG is compressed natural gas- it's how a lot of vehicles in India are running these days and let me tell you, way less pollution!) in the middle of taking you somewhere. So we got into this long line of about 30-40 autos… and had no idea what was going on. Anyway, that was interesting. I knew it would happen at some point, I just wasn’t sure when, and I was hoping that it wouldn’t be at a time where I actually had some place to be.

So Jama Masjid. We wore our Indian gear so as not to be hassled by the people who run the mosque, and I'm glad we did because all the other non-Indian people there ended up having to put on these incredibly strange looking hospital gown type getups because they were believed to be inappropriately dressed. Just after we arrived we heard the muezzin and watched the people do their prayers and afterwards we were able to go into the mosque itself. We walked around a bit, took a bunch of pictures, people-watched, and sat on the outside steps before leaving to watch the sky full of kites being flown by kids standing on rooftops. I couldn't tell whether the pictures I took captured the kites in the sky, but it was an image I won't soon forget.

Anyway, it was exciting to see Old Delhi. And by exciting, I mean, it was a completely insane place. Old Delhi is kind of what you think of India as being like. Narrow crowded streets with people, bicycle rickshaws, motorbikes, auto rickshaws, and carts, all trying to push past each other. Total chaos and a strange mixture of the most pleasant, and the most unpleasant, smells. Stalls lining the alleys selling things like kebabs and books. Lots and lots of live animals (we saw chickens, other birds, roosters, and a giant goat) and lots and lots of dead animals (um, the head of a goat, just to give one example) covered in flies either before or after cooking. I'm pretty sure that sight would turn anybody vegetarian. We weren't even there for that long but I was completely fascinated by everything I saw. I'm not sure if I have the guts to spend more time exploring Old Delhi, but if I do I can be sure that it will be quite an adventure.

So that was my weekend- action packed and full of memorable experiences, all of which are documented photographically. When I get back from the Taj I'll do another picture post (hopefully Picasa won't confuse me so much this time around) so all the wonderful people who are following my blog can share the wonder.

Well, it's about time for me to finish packing and get to bed early, as I have some more action-packed days ahead. Also, Titanic is on. Until next time!

What a whirlwind!

7/25/10- 3:30pm

I'll write more later and post it on Tuesday when I get back from the Taj Mahal- but- last night Beth and I went to an Indian night club. In the email I just wrote to Jason I described it as "a hoot" but I don't think that does it justice. I had a really great time!

Today, some solo sightseeing in an auto rickshaw: a couple higher-end craft emporiums (finally found something my dad and brother will like) plus the Lotus Temple (Baha'i) and the ISKCON Temple (Hare Krishnas). I would really like to go back to the Hare Krishna temple because I've heard they have a delicious restaurant there, and considering I used to visit the Philly temple on a weekly basis it's something I would love to do.

In a little while I'm gonna go check out Jama Masjid (a mosque... I guess I am hitting every faith today) and head in early for the night to wash some clothes, pack, and rest up for our excursion. We leave at 6:30am tomorrow!!!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Thanks Ex-pats!

7/24/10- 5:30pm

Another Saturday in India, another day of shopping and beauty treatments! My new favorite thing is called a head massage. You get oil (this time it was olive, I'm not sure what they used last time) rubbed all over your hair and scalp and then get a scalp, face, shoulder, arm, neck, and upper back massage. It is completely heavenly! Afterwards, you get a nice shampoo and a second scalp massage to go along with it. During my massage I was wondering if this sort of thing is available in the states, and then I realized that even if it was, I probably wouldn't be able to afford it. Better "stock up" on head massages while I'm here!

But, perhaps more interesting, last night, our group was invited to the Fulbright director's house for some nice ex-pat hospitality. Adam Grotsky lives in an absolutely gorgeous apartment on the top floor of the Fulbright House, which (from what I recall from what Adam told us) was built in the 1920s or 1930s by the British to house the contractors who were building what we know as New Delhi: the wide tree-lined avenues, roundabouts, bungalows, etc. Anyway, it turns out Adam is originally from Harrisburg and went to Penn for undergrad- it was really nice to chat with somebody who's familiar with where I'm from! Well, we were over at Adam's for a few hours, and by the time we got back to the hotel I was pretty exhausted. Was it ever nice to go to sleep.

We sat around and had delicious food and Kingfisher beer, and there were a couple other Fulbrighters who happened to be in town too, so we had a great time talking to them and hearing about their work and their impressions of India. It was also a welcome change to spend time with other Americans- other than the people in our group, we have been dealing exclusively with Indian citizens, and sometimes the language difficulty (it's not quite a barrier) can get a little tedious. They have a hard time understanding our accents, and we have a hard time understanding theirs, and my Hindi is pretty much nonexistent. In my normal daily life I take for granted that I can readily understand people and they can readily understand me, so it has been a change to have to put in extra effort towards making sure the person I am speaking to can understand me. I would hate for them to have an idea about Americans that we speak quickly and unintelligibly! It really gives me a lot of empathy to people who are learning new languages or living in completely foreign lands- I don't think I could handle the frustration that would come along with being in a place where I don't speak the language at all- but Indian English, I can handle reasonably well.

Which brings us to today. After all the running around of the past 2+ weeks, I just wanted to sit around for a while and do nothing- so that's what I did for the first half of the day. Then Beth and I went over to Khan Market for a couple hours. In addition to the aforementioned beauty treatments and shopping, we also had some really delicious kebabs there from a little Afghan stand that usually has a long line of customers- I had some kind of spinach and onion thingy wrapped in some extremely thin bread. It sure was tasty! In a little while we're going out with one of her friend's friends (something like that) for cocktails and snacks.

What's on my mind the most lately (when I'm not thinking about how I can make the most of my experience here) is how excited I am to be getting back home on August 14. The fact that I am having a blast here, enjoying new experiences, learning a lot, having adventures, and all that, doesn't take away from the fact that at heart I love being home. It's kind of a complicated set of conflicting feelings to sort out. For me, missing home doesn't mean that I'm regretting my decision to come on this trip or that I would hop on the next plane home if I could. I am happy to have three more weeks here to experience and learn all I can, because I know my work here has barely begun. But I know with 100% certainty that by the time August 14 rolls around, I'm going to be beside myself with excitement because I'll get to go home!

Friday, July 23, 2010

"You look like Punjabi girl!"

7/23/10 4pm

It's now been two full weeks since I left Philadelphia, and as of tomorrow, it'll be three weeks until I return home. And even though I've been at my school for over a week, I still get the red carpet treatment from all the students, and that gives me a very happy feeling.

At my school, and I'm assuming in most Indian schools, the schedule varies day by day. I teach 4-6 classes per day, but don't see the same groups of kids at the same time every day. Some classes meet twice a day on certain days, other classes meet just one or two periods a week. So while I've completely taken over two English classes and a couple sections of Spoken English, each day is a different schedule with different free periods. This has been an interesting experience. It can get confusing for someone not accustomed to it, and I have to admit I still feel jumbled each day as I have to constantly refer to my notebook to figure out where I am supposed to be!

Invariably, when I'm in the hallways between classes, groups of students come up to me and ask me if I can visit their classes. Sometimes I don't have anywhere to be, so I can go, but some kids have been asking me to visit for 2-3 days in a row and I haven't been able to make it. But when I can, it's a ton of fun. I get asked for my autograph still, and the kids like to hear about what it's like to live in America. They are all curious, attentive, and sweet… and sometimes they give me handmade cards or other gifts to welcome me to their school.

Yesterday one of the teachers at my school, Dharitri, said that she doesn't think of me as American anymore, she thinks of me as Indian. Moreover, with my complexion and how I dress, she said "You look like Punjabi girl!" I've heard the Punjabi girl thing a lot over the past few days… and I get a kick out of it every time, because I don't think I look remotely Indian!

I have time to read the newspaper every day- The Times of India- and let me tell you, it's quite different from any American paper. The articles are much more opinionated and lively than anything you read in America. I've been cutting out articles that are particularly interesting or funny, to bring back to show people when I return. Indian politics are a big topic in the papers, but the thing that people are writing about most is whether Delhi is prepared to host the Commonwealth Games in October and whether the Delhi Metro will ever be completed. Apparently everything is over budget and behind schedule, and the papers are not shy about expressing their collective frustration.

It's true, there is construction EVERYWHERE, which is not only ugly but creates a lot of dust and noise. We went to Connaught Place last week, and it was nearly impossible to walk anywhere without worrying you were going to fall into a trench or trip over a pile of loose bricks. When everything is finished, Delhi will be absolutely gorgeous- it's just a shame I won't be here to see it.

I'm really excited about our trip to the Taj Mahal, which will be Monday and Tuesday. I went to the Taj when I was on Semester at Sea, but this time around we will get to see it twice: on certain full moons, they open up at night for moonlight viewings; tickets are hard to come by but our group was able to get them! Then we'll go back the next day, before heading back to Delhi. It's a six hour drive each way, and while that wouldn't ordinarily be something I look forward to, I'm excited to see the Indian countryside, since up until this point I haven't left New Delhi! I promise, I'll take a lot of pictures.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Bangle-Wallah

7/22/10- 5:15pm

If clothes and jewelry were as fun to shop for (and as inexpensive) in the U.S. as they are in India, I would be in huge trouble. Today in less than two hours I did some major damage (although not to my wallet) and ended up with aching arms from carrying it all around. Some things were for myself, but many will be given as gifts once I get home.

I did buy a few dozen sets of bangles, making me (un?)-officially a bangle-wallah. ("-Wallah" is the Hindi suffix added to someone who sells or is an expert regarding something: for example, our school has a couple chai-wallahs who sell chai to the staff; people who know their way around Delhi are Delhi-wallahs; and being that I now own a few pounds of glass and metal sparkly bangles, I dub myself a bangle-wallah.)

School was, as usual, great today. I spent most of the day teaching the KV schools curriculum, which is highly standardized and possible to implement as-is without any "extras." I thought it would be all lectures and rote exercises, but I was pleased to see a variety of activities that involve group discussion and independent thinking, along with the fill-in-the-blank grammar exercises I had assumed would be there. I like that my host teachers trust my abilities enough to be able to leave me alone in the classroom to help prepare the kids for their "benchmark" exams- which are next week!

Anyway, I am trying to teach the Indian curriculum in the way that I would teach content in the States (without all the technology of course!) and I'm enjoying the feeling of having a break from the laptops and getting back to the basics. Of course, I miss choosing my own materials, planning my own projects, and trying to push the boundaries of what can or cannot be done in a classroom… but this is a really nice change of pace. The kids are open to trying new things, though they are a tad reluctant to think outside the box in some instances- but it's cute, as soon as I say "So this is how we do things in America…" their little ears prick up!

But like I was saying to Jason today, every time I pick up on a difference between American and Indian schools, I also notice a similarity. I expected to find more differences than similarities, but I'm finding out that they're about equal. I only wish I understood Hindi so I knew what the teachers are saying in the staff room!

Indian hospitality is still a wonderful thing to experience, and considering the dust and chaos of New Delhi the hotel has become a welcome oasis. Last night the hotel manager had invited us all to cocktails at the hotel bar (which I plan to frequent) which ended up being cocktails AND fabulous finger foods, meaning I didn't have to worry about getting dinner. Corey Flintoff from NPR was also there, but as he was talking shop with our resident journalism teacher, I didn't want to intrude with my questions about Afghanistan! The red carpet that has been laid out for us is wonderful and I have to say, I'm getting used to having my room straightened up twice a day and having fresh fruit brought to me every afternoon- these things will be hard to give up, but one cannot live like royalty forever, alas...

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Visit from a magician

7/21/10 - 3:30pm

As I mentioned before, schools in India typically have a morning assembly which consists of attendance, prayer, the national anthem, announcements, and other assorted tasks. Today a magician came to perform for the kids as a special treat! Although it was all in Hindi (a language I know about 6 words of) it seemed pretty similar to an American magic show. The guy wore a cape, turned handkerchiefs different colors, etc. The students, whether or not they had a good view, were very attentive and polite the entire time.

I thought the excitement of the day was over after the magician finished his show, and that the rest of the day would be fairly ordinary. However, halfway through the morning an announcement came over the loudspeaker (in Hindi, of course) that informed everyone in the school that a monkey was on the loose and that all the students should stay in their classrooms and teachers should be careful. It was sort of like a monkey lockdown. The students found it pretty funny, and when I got back to the staff room later in the day, there was much talk about who saw the monkey.

The ladies at school have all begun bringing in food for me to eat during the morning snack break, and it is absolutely wonderful to have home cooking instead of restaurant food. Plus, they are all excellent cooks! I think they were hesitant at first because they didn't know whether I found Indian food too spicy. I don't know many Americans who dislike spicy food so I think it's just some kind of stereotype, maybe?

The kids at school had more interesting questions for me today. Many wanted to know about what shopping was like in the states. They were interested to hear about shopping malls and supermarkets, but I also let them know that there were plenty of small "corner stores" in America just like there are in India. One 8th grader (!!!) also asked me if I thought Barack Obama deserved the Nobel Peace Prize. Another asked me what my opinion was about George W. Bush vs. Barack Obama. I thought it was interesting to see how knowledgeable they are about current events- let alone events happening in other countries!

Anyway, I think I'm going to attempt to visit the Laxminarayan Temple, which is pretty close to the hotel (although sadly not within walking distance). Followed by a meeting at the hotel, cocktails, and then it's early to bed again for me- Just as I was getting over my heat exhaustion from the other day, I seem to have picked up a cold, no doubt from a kid at school. I guess students are agents of disease in all corners of the globe….

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Rainy Day

7/20/10 - 5pm

I got lucky today with the monsoons. When I woke up at 5:45 this morning, it was raining a little… thank goodness the torrential downpour waited to pick up in earnest until I was safely inside the school building! It absolutely poured for most of the morning but it slowed down around noon, so when I left school around 1pm I barely needed my umbrella. And by 3pm the sun was back out, just in time for me to meander around Khan Market for a while, with the added bonus of the heat and humidity being bearable. A good deal altogether.

I went to Khan Market on a mission to find a tailor who will make Jason a custom suit. There are two tailors inside the hotel (for some reason) and I found their estimates to be a little high, perhaps, so I thought I'd walk around to find something. Well, I didn't find any men's tailors, but I did find a shop where I could get a custom made Salwar Kameez (what Indian ladies here call "suits") and I'm gonna pick it up in a few days! Normally, I would not get anything custom made- but the fabric plus the labor only cost about $35- how can I pass that up? I can't wait to rock my custom suit- here in India and also when I get back home!

On the walk back from the market I spotted a dog literally sleeping in the middle of the road. There are stray dogs all over the place here. I've only seen one or two stray cats, and from what I have gleaned from my students people don't keep dogs as pets here… so I have no idea where these dogs came from or what their deal is. Some of them are extremely cute and appear to be well-fed but there is no way I would go near one- who knows what kind of bugs they are carrying.

School was very nice today. I am lucky to have such a wonderful cooperating teacher, Mrs. Wilma Kumar (aka Wilma Mam), to take me around the school and introduce me to all the people, to guide me through Indian school etiquette kindly and patiently, to rescue me from a lost taxi driver, to then draw a map so it didn't happen again, to translate the Hindi conversations in the ladies' staff room into English for me, to offer to bring me a tiffin for lunch each day, and on the whole, to make my experience so wonderful. At one of our many trainings before we left for India, it was said that the Indian people, as a matter of course, offer acts of kindness to others that cannot be repaid. Well, the kindness Wilma has shown to me, just in the past few days... there is no way I could ever pay it back or pay it forward.

The thing that Indian kids seem to enjoy (other than saying "good morning mam" whenever they see me) is getting my autograph. One kid in a class asks for an autograph and then the other 46 want one and they want it NOW. So the class rushes me and keeps shoving notebooks in my face. It is really cute, yet at the same time kind of odd. But I think they think I'm famous- one kid asked me today if I knew Miley Cyrus.

So, it's almost dinner time and I am going to try to get some Chinese food tonight, considering I haven't had a proper dinner for 2 days due to not feeling well. The usual evening agenda has lately involved reading, watching TV, and writing with an early bedtime, and that suits me just fine. The big excitement is that the manager of our hotel invited our group to cocktails tomorrow at the hotel's bar- I'm looking forward to more of that good Indian hospitality!

Monday, July 19, 2010

Riding in taxis

7/19/10 - 4pm

I don’t know why I thought this, but I had assumed that Delhi was a fairly dense city where it would be easy to walk pretty much anywhere I needed to go. Wrong! It's actually quite spread out and confusing to navigate with many traffic circles and streets that seem to go off at strange angles. The area near my hotel is all beautiful tree-lined streets and wide boulevards. It is always wonderful to go for a taxi ride and see the world passing by!

My school is in the military base area of New Delhi, called Delhi Cantt (short for Cantonment). On my ride to and from work, after a few minutes on the expressway, I pass by all kinds of battalions, mess halls, army hospitals, etc. before going through an area where there are a couple missionary schools. After that we make a right onto a dirt road and pass by a bunch of cows eating scraps of food that have been left out for them. Then we go around a bend and we're at my school. It is quite different from my drive to SOTF every day, that's for sure! There is always something new and exciting to see just around the bend.

The "Elisabeth M'am" novelty hasn't worn off at my school, and today I got to visit a couple of classrooms who had been begging their teachers to make arrangements to speak with me. The kids want to know all about life in America, my students, my school… I have gotten all sorts of questions! Even better, a couple of the girls made me really sweet cards and drawings to welcome me to their school. I could tell how much thought and effort went into these and I will treasure them forever!

Today has been sort of a quiet day because a couple of the people in our group are under the weather, myself included (although I'm doing pretty well in comparison, considering I was able to go to school today and others had to call out sick!). The heat yesterday really did a number on me, however, I am mostly better after some resting, sleeping (yes- both resting AND sleeping), lots of water and fruit, and a little bit of exercise today at the hotel's fitness center. I should be good as new by tomorrow, and am looking forward to the possibility of doing a bit of sightseeing on my way home from work, as long as it hasn't started raining by then. The forecast keeps calling for rain, but it hasn't actually rained in a week.

There's not a whole lot of specific news to report, but I realized today (now that I've been here in India for a full week) that I am really learning a lot about myself, the world, and my place in it. That being said, I have to confess I get a little homesick at times, but this is to be expected. After all, I am literally on the other side of the planet!

More pictures

Check it out!

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Day of Sightseeing

7/18/10 - 7pm

Qutab Minar and Safdarjung's Tomb have been on my list of Delhi attractions to visit, and I got to see both today, plus an art museum and a crafts market. I got a lot of great pictures, which I will upload to the Picasa album soon, but, as you can imagine, it was extremely hot and humid and most of the day I was dripping sweat. Until then, if you want to see pictures of the places I visited today or to learn more, you can just visit the links at the bottom of this entry.

Now, back at the air-conditioned hotel, I am still feeling exhausted and don't know how much longer I'll wait before going to bed! (After all, I have a really early morning tomorrow as I go back to my second-favorite school in the world, KV no. 2.) The heat really takes it out of you here- I normally dislike but tolerate the heat, but today was just too much.

Anyway, Qutab Minar is shorthand for the huge minaret and the complex surrounding it, made up of mosques and tombs and a school. It was built around the 1200s, if I recall correctly, and the minaret itself is enormous and beautiful! Unfortunately, a lot of the complex is in ruins, but there is still enough to see that you can get an idea of what it must have looked like in its heyday. It must have been mindblowingly spectacular to see such a tall tower crafted so beautifully out of red and white stone.

Safdarjung's tomb is the building on which the Taj Mahal was based. When you see it, you get the sense that Shah Jehan (the guy who built the Taj for his wife) wanted to take the design and improve upon it, and make it on a much grander scale. Like the Qutab Minar complex buildings, it's red stone, and very pretty. The grounds (as far as I could see anyway) are shaped like a giant "plus" sign, with the actual tomb right in the middle. The "arms" of the plus sign are reflecting pools, and the whole thing is surrounded by a wall. Again, it would have been amazing to see the building when it was first constructed, with the reflecting pools glistening in the sun or the fountains going.

We also stopped at an art museum, Sanskriti Kendra, which hosts visiting artists from around the world and displays a collection of Indian terra cotta, textiles, and "everyday objects" from times past. It was amazing to see the variety of objects in the museum, and best of all, we were the only people there!

If you would like to learn more about Safdarjung's tomb please visit this site as a jumping-off point: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safdarjung%27s_Tomb

If you would like to learn more about Qutab Minar please visit this site as a jumping-off point:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutab_Minar

If you would like to learn more about Sanskriti Kendra please visit this site:
http://www.sanskritifoundation.org/

But so sorry to say, the day wore me out and I lack the energy to go out for dinner with my pals, although I might order some room service (swanky!) later if I'm not asleep. Let's hope I haven't come down with a case of "Delhi Belly"!!!!

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Day of Beauty

7/17/10 - 8:30pm

We had a nice relaxing day in the neighborhood today- for once, no taxis or autos!

After sleeping in and having a leisurely hotel breakfast, a couple of us headed over to Lodhi Gardens. This is a large park well within walking distance of the hotel, which contains a couple buildings that are about 500 years old! It was very lush and green, but VERY HOT. We saw some interesting birds (including a Kingfisher) and explored the beautiful old stone buildings: there's a mosque, a couple tombs, and some stuff that we weren't exactly sure about. It was nice to do something a little touristy, but like I said, it was incredibly hot and humid and we were dripping sweat just walking around.

The heat and humidity here… it's a constant presence as long as the sun is up. I've begun to adjust, but it makes it difficult to do anything that's not absolutely necessary. It is nearly unbearable- the thing that keeps me going is that there are so many wonderful things to see and do here in India.

Anyway, on the way back from Lodhi Gardens we stopped at Fabindia which is pretty much the best store ever. It has "trendy" traditional Indian clothing and housewares too. I bought some more clothes to wear to school (and beyond). I tried to limit myself, because I know I'll want to go back at a later date for more!

Some of the ladies in the group (myself included) then spent the afternoon at a salon having a day of beauty. I got a head massage and an Ayurvedic facial, and had my eyebrows threaded. The head massage is something I've never heard of and I am hoping to enjoy several before I go back to the states. They put oil all over your scalp and then give your whole head, shoulders, arms, and neck a vigorous massage. Afterwards, they allow the oil to soak into your hair and scalp before shampooing it out. I don't think I can put into words how invigorating and wonderful this felt! Ditto with the facial. And my eyebrows have never looked better. Beauty treatments like this are quite affordable in India… further proof that I am living like a queen over here!

Pizza for dinner, and then we stopped at the store next to the hotel to talk to Gaurav. Gaurav is becoming one of my favorite people here. He runs the store which is in the same building as our hotel- it's basically an Indian version of a Bodega. Anyway, Gaurav is our key to success because he can special-order stuff for us if we need it, plus (and this is totally crucial) he is helping us coordinate transportation to our schools since he is pals with the taxi drivers in the neighborhood. Knowing people who can help you out is super important when you're a stranger in a strange land, and luckily for us, Indian people seem to take a lot of pride in helping and protecting foreigners. So, Gaurav is happy to help us negotiate with taxi drivers for transportation to and from school, and thus we are happy to buy snacks at Gaurav's store and chat him up once or twice a day.

OH! I almost forgot to mention that I ate at McDonald's yesterday. I know this sounds insane, but McDonald's in India, like every other food establishment, is super vegetarian friendly. I had the McVeggie, fries, and a soda. This is not something I would ordinarily do at home- being that nearly everything at McDonald's has some kind of beef product in it- but how could I pass it up?

The heat really wears you out, and we had a day of excitement, so now I'm back at the hotel watching TV, reading the paper, and drinking a huge bottle of water. I'll probably go to bed soon! It's my brother Ben's 29th birthday- HAPPY BIRTHDAY BENJ!!!!- so I tried to call him, but ended up leaving him a voice mail. I talked to my dad for a little while, and now my prepaid phone is almost out and I won't be able to add minutes until tomorrow. I guess this puts a damper on my plan to call Jason!

Tomorrow we'll be doing some sightseeing- going to the Qutab Minar complex and who knows, maybe somewhere else too- and I hope that this coming week I'll be able to get out one or two afternoons to check out some attractions that are nearer to the hotel. I want to squeeze in as much as I can while I'm here!

I'll post some pictures tomorrow!