Sunday, August 15, 2010

And home again

8/15/10 8:30am

Just a brief post, as I am jet-lagged and busy unpacking... I returned safely from India yesterday afternoon. It was a long journey, and I still have a lot to think about and learn from it!

I'll be writing more in the coming days because like I said, even though I'm home I still have a lot to reflect on.

Thanks for all your well-wishes and prayers during my journey to keep me safe. They definitely worked.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Goodbye to India!

Well, this is going to be the last entry I'll post from India. In a couple hours we're going to the airport, arriving with plenty of time to go through security and check our bags and all that. Then, as I've probably mentioned, there's a flight to Frankfurt, a 7-hour-or-so layover there, and another flight to Philadelphia. I hope to be home by dinnertime on Saturday!

India has been truly wonderful, and I think that as time passes, I will continue to reflect on the experiences I had here and they will prove to be a wealth of knowledge. I know that this experience has made me a better teacher and a better person. I hope I have positively affected the lives of the Indian students and teachers I met along the way. I also expect that my experiences will have a positive impact on my own colleagues and students.

Last night, a few of us got mehendi. I got it on my hands and feet- and it looks great. It was a fun experience! The person applying it puts the designs on your hands and feet, then you have to let it dry for a couple hours. When it's dry you apply coconut oil, let it sink in, wait a bit longer, scrape off the excess, and then apply lemon juice and more oil. It darkened overnight and should stay on my hands and feet for a few days. Yesterday was a holiday, so that meant a lot of the mehendi people were busy and unavailable, so we were lucky to find two people who would come to the hotel room and do it- otherwise, you're sitting outside waiting for the henna to dry or trying to make it back to the hotel without using your hands! I got some sweets and snacks, and it was a good time.

Today, it's been packing and hanging at the hotel with a break to go over to the salon and get a facial. My one suitcase weighs 48 pounds, and my second duffel bag weighs about 30. I'd estimate my carry-on is about 15-20, meaning yes, I am carrying almost 100 pounds of STUFF back home. I unfortunately had to leave some shoes and clothes behind, which I feel is a bit wasteful, but if I hadn't done that I wouldn't have been able to bring home all the gifts the teachers at my school gave me! I mean, I can buy another pair of running shoes at home, but gifts cannot be replaced.

So, here I go, signing off from India. I'm hoping for a safe and uneventful journey, filled with lots of sleep and good airplane movies. Wish me luck!

Thursday, August 12, 2010

This one says it all...



This picture says it all!

Latest Batch of Photos!

Last day!

8/12/10 6pm

Today was a very bittersweet day for me at KV No. 2, filled with many surprises and tons of love. I received so many gifts from the teachers, and had kids coming up to me all day asking for my autograph and giving me small tokens of affection, like pens and homemade cards. I don't think that I can really put into words how much today meant to me- but suffice to say, I have never had an experience like I did today and probably never will again.

I was able to address the whole school this morning during morning assembly, and I hope I expressed my gratitude adequately. The school community, from the very beginning, treated me like a member of the family and I felt at home right away. The teachers were all so nice, especially the ladies, and the students have all been so sweet and loving and inquisitive, if a little shy. I told the students that I hoped that they learned from the experience of having me around, and that I learned from them too. In fact, I probably learned more than I was able to teach. I encouraged them to continue to work hard and in all their endeavors and be kind and compassionate to others, and show everyone they meet the same kindness that they have showed me.

The day was a blur- I went to my regular classes and did a little bit of teaching, but mostly I got pulled from classroom to classroom meeting with classes for a few minutes at a time. I really felt like a celebrity and even kids I hadn't met before said how much they were going to miss me. It was really cute!

The teachers threw a little surprise party for me- everybody got called into the library after school and we had pakoras, sweets, and chai. I didn't expect such a to-do, but the teachers and administrators were all coming up and making speeches about how much they enjoyed having me, and I got some nice gifts that everybody chipped in to get me. Everyone said the most wonderful things: how I fit right in and never seemed like an outsider to them; how much they loved that I wore Indian clothing to school; what a great teacher I am; how friendly and cheerful I am; how excited they were to bring me food every day; how I have such wonderful values… it was amazing and wonderful. The principal also described me as "perfect" which was quite flattering! I have never before had the experience of people saying so many nice things to me at one time and being so genuinely appreciative.

Teachers don't usually get any glory, and I am not used to being the center of attention, so being here in India and having so much positive feedback and praise lavished on me has been a totally new experience. The school appreciated me immensely just for being there and talking with them, and I am not used to people being so excited just to have me around. It has been a month of living almost like a celebrity- staying in a fancy hotel, getting driven around, room service, so much appreciation and smiles from everyone constantly- being treated this way, how could anyone NOT come off as a friendly and happy person?

But alas, all good things must come to an end, and so I look forward to my last evening in India. A mehendi artist is coming to our hotel to jazz up our hands and feet with lovely henna designs. Although mehendi is traditionally done just before a wedding, it is acceptable to have it done to mark a special occasion, and I cannot think of an occasion more special than coming home from this 5 week journey. Since it's best not to move or sweat for a couple hours after mehendi, so that the henna really looks sharp and lasts a long time, I am glad that we won't have to venture out to do it. As you can imagine, India is extremely hot and humid and just the act of stepping outside to walk to the convenience store next to the hotel leaves you dripping with sweat! So, any opportunity to avoid that is a good thing.

And then tomorrow night we go to the airport for a 2am flight. Yeah, I've never taken a flight that leaves at 2am but apparently that's how they do things here. We'll be taking off from the new "T3" at Indira Gandhi International Airport- there's been a lot of hullabaloo about it in the papers because there are still some things that haven't gotten worked out- for example, none of the counters have land lines to other terminals in the airport. The terminal has been open for about 2-3 weeks, and it seems that international travelers aren't facing the same amounts of problems as domestic travelers who have to make international connections- or something like that. Anyway, I'll be traveling for about 24 hours, approximately 7 of which will be spent at the Frankfurt airport. It's going to feel so great to get home!

This month has really flown by. I've had mostly good times and a couple difficult moments where I felt homesick and lonely. (Not to mention the abuse my digestive system has been subjected to.) It's hard to leave behind everything and everyone you know and go halfway around the world not knowing what's going to happen or what to expect. But I did it. And this trip, really, has made me a different and a better person. I am so lucky to have been given this opportunity, and I can't wait to get home to share my experiences with everyone.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

DONE shopping!

8/11/10 4pm

There's not a whole lot to report from New Delhi. It's not like things are boring, or that I'm not busy- I guess it's just that I am exhausted from this whirlwind of a month. If I were more alert, I could think about writing a long philosophical entry about everything I learned on this trip, but I haven't figured all of that out yet, so I think I'll procrastinate on that entry. Besides, we haven't left India yet- so that means there are still things to learn!

Anyway, my presentations are over and now there are just a few things left on the agenda. One of them WAS finishing my shopping. I went to Sarojini Nagar Market again and bought a cheapo duffel bag plus some more scarves and a couple tops and about 80 million bangles. I'm glad to have gotten that last shopping trip out of the way. I was into the shopping for a while, but I've actually gotten kind of sick of it. After a while everything starts to look the same, and I start to feel overwhelmed. I like that everything in India is so inexpensive, but that makes it all too tempting to get stuff you wouldn't ordinarily get because "who knows when I'll be here again!" So, I hope I didn't err too much in that direction.

Another item on today's agenda is a celebration. Today is Christopher's birthday, so we are going to celebrate that tonight in place of our last weekly meeting. I'm very much looking forward to some good times!!! Who knows what the night will bring?

Tomorrow is my last day teaching at KV No. 2 and I am sad about it because the experience has been so wonderful through and through. I have gotten really attached to the teachers there and they have really taken me under their wings and treated me like family. And I love the students- they are so sweet, affectionate, and curious. My Philadelphia learners will always be #1 in my heart, but these KV kids are a close second! After school tomorrow they are hosting a small party for me with samosas, chai, and sweets. I will also speak at morning assembly so I can formally thank the school for having me and teaching me so much. I am so thankful for having been given this opportunity- it is going to be really difficult to put my gratitude into words.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Power Cuts

8/9/10 5pm

This morning I gave a presentation to a group of English teachers from KV schools around Delhi. I'll be giving a similar talk on Wednesday to a group of teachers at my own school, so it was nice to only have to prepare one presentation. It feels like forever since I was at my host school (it was actually last Thursday) and let me tell you, I am extremely excited to get back there tomorrow… especially since our last day is Thursday!

The one thing I forgot regarding this presentation was that in India, the power goes out fairly regularly for minutes or hours at a time. This is all well and good until you are in the middle of a PowerPoint presentation and both the power and the backup generators stop working… which is what happened to me today! But really, it's not like things were ruined by any stretch. I was able to finish saying what I needed to say (forgot a few minor points, but oh well) and from the feedback I received from the teachers to whom I was presenting, it was a success.

But oh, the heat.

We don't have this kind of heat and humidity in the States, and while I have made major strides in putting up with it, I still don't feel adjusted to it completely. This is the kind of weather that makes it hard to climb a flight of stairs without getting winded, where your clothes stick to you, where drops of sweat roll down your back, where you sweat in places you don't normally sweat like your knees and the tops of your feet. And today it was bad, worse than usual, to the point where during my (hopefully last) souvenir and gift buying excursion I actually felt my heart pounding because my blood pressure had risen. So I gave up officially on trying to find something for Jason's dad (that man is impossible to buy for unless you are in Cabela's) and headed back to the air conditioned comforts of my hotel room. And consider myself lucky because a lot of people in this city don't have nice places to go, let alone air-conditioned ones.

I'm pretty tired from the heat plus the three late nights in a row I've had, so I am going to take this opportunity to enjoy some room service for dinner and get to bed early. Not a whole lot going on tomorrow, but on Wednesday the end-of-India whirlwind begins with some birthday celebrations and other festivities. At some point I need to figure out what size bag I need to buy to lug all the stuff I've bought home- this was part of my plan, and I really should have taken care of this sooner- now I'm stressing about it because I procrastinated!

I am also taking some time tonight for making a list of foods I want Jason to have on hand when I get home. There are things I miss, such as our homemade burritos, blueberries, raw vegetables, salad, American Diet Coke (it IS different here), the tomato pie from the bakery across the street, and grapefruit juice. I know he really misses me and can't wait for me to get home so I need to have *something* to occupy his time. After all, it's been a whole month that we've been gone!

A Temple with Rides?

8/8/10 7pm

As a whole and on average, I would say that Indian people are more religious and spiritual than American people. And I would be really surprised if anybody disagrees with that. Indian people tend to spend more time than Americans observing their religion, and it seems to play a significant role in their everyday lives. Here in Delhi, as in most of India, the majority of people are Hindu, but Hinduism has many different flavors and so everybody's personal observance seems to be unique. So needless to say, there are all kinds of temples here and I've been to a couple during my stay here.

I really enjoy the role religion and spirituality play in daily life here. Every auto rickshaw, taxi, and business has in it at least one image of the proprietor's favorite deity or religious figure. Vegetarianism is taken very seriously here; in fact, in order to be respectful to those who are highly offended by meat, the teachers at my school are only allowed to bring vegetarian food into the building. There are all sorts of festivals and religious observances going on all the time, and so many things are seen to be auspicious: Tuesdays, for example, or certain plants, or being left-handed. And I know there is a lot of tension between Hindus and Muslims on a macro level, but I haven't heard anybody say anything negative about another religious group during my entire stay here. It seems that there is an acknowledgment that although the practices and deities and specifics might be different, everybody has the same goal in mind and the same core values. When I see (for example) Hindu people speaking so tolerantly of others because they acknowledge that we all pray to the same God, it makes me sad that the reality of life is that so many wars are fought over religion. There are a lot of things I don't understand in this world, and fighting about religion is one of them!

But I want to tell you about where 4 of us visited on Saturday afternoon. The most exciting temple I have ever been to: Akshardham Temple, built by followers of the saint Swami Narayan who lived in the early 1800s. And I say that it was the most exciting because it is part house of worship and part theme park. Yes, theme park. There are three "rides" plus the temple plus a snack bar plus a gift shop plus night-time fountain show with laser lights plus numerous places to have a souvenir photo taken (I did not partake, because the finished results, frankly, looked Photoshopped and fake.) We spent about 4 hours there yesterday and got to see it all!

I'm sure readers of my blog would be most interested to know about the rides. The first ride was a multi-room presentation of Swami Narayan's life and teachings. Basically, his teachings were of nonviolence, compassion, vegetarianism, and service… and apparently theme parks in his honor. As we walked from room to room in the exhibition, a booming voice narrated and Animatronic figures blinked and moved their arms stiffly. It was entertaining and informative…. And most important, it was very nicely air conditioned.

The second ride was actually an IMAX movie about Swami Narayan's life. The audio was extremely loud as well, and we were given headphones that gave the English translation. Again, we saw brought to life the story of Swami Narayan's life plus some information on the mission work the group does today, which seems pretty extensive and beneficial. There were some very melodramatic moments in the movie, which made me giggle.

But the third ride was my favorite. It was actually a ten minute boat ride illustrating the history of India. It was very similar in format to the Pirates of the Caribbean, with things to see around every bend in the "river." The big thing that the ride was trying to communicate was that all the important mathematical, scientific, medical, philosophical, spiritual, humanitarian, etc concepts were discovered in India thousands of years before they were discovered in the West. It was very patriotic towards India, as you can imagine. The patriotic part at the end really reminded me of It's a Small World.

After the rides, we actually went to the temple. Outside the complex there was an Abishek hall where we were given holy water to pour over a small deity. This was to make wishes come true and for general good fortune. I'm hoping for safe travels home, continued good luck, and the health of my family and loved ones, so I'll do pretty much anything that will bring me good luck! Then, on to the temple hall. The whole complex was built recently, so rather than the other temples I've been to, which are fairly old, this one was brand new. The temple was really beautiful and contained an enormous statue of Swami Narayan surrounded by jewels and beautiful carvings. All around the circular room were Hindu deities and illustrations of Swami Narayan's life. There were also some relics from Swami Narayan, like his shoes, prayer beads, that stuff. It was interesting to be in a temple whose central glorification point was a person, while the actual deities were off to the side. And it made me wonder if the real Swami Narayan, who professed to be a humble servant of God, would agree with how "his" temple was set up. Just like how some people wonder how Jesus would feel about how Christianity has evolved. The parallel is very interesting to me.

We got back from the temple around 9, and so Beth and I had a late dinner out in Khan Market. Let me tell you, it is SO nice to have an "all-you-need" spot within walking distance! We went to this place that we had visited when we first arrived, and had some delicious Chinese food. Chinese food is really popular here in Delhi (and maybe in the whole of India?) and all of the Chinese I've eaten over the course of this trip has been great. I can't quite put my finger on the differences between American Chinese and Indian Chinese- but there are differences in seasoning, presentation, and choice of dishes for sure.

Today I went over to Jantar Mantar, an outdoor observatory built in the early 1700s in order to study the heavens. There were all sorts of large stone and concrete structures that you could climb around on, which measured different things, like the time and the date, solar angles and all that stuff. Reading the inscriptions on the structures, I learned that the site had been revamped in the early 20th century and a renewed effort began about a year ago to maintain it- suffice to say, it probably looked very different when it was built! But speaking of the sun, I was only there for about 20 minutes because it was WAY too hot to be outside. If I knew a bit more about astronomy or science, I probably would have gotten more out of it- but it was impressive nonetheless. It always amazes me how much people can figure out about the world through careful observation and measurement!

Off to another late dinner in a bit, and tomorrow I'm giving a presentation to a group of English teachers at a different KV school. I finished the PowerPoint earlier today and it includes the following topics: basics about the American educational system, information about SOTF and how we do things, a case study of Project-Based Learning using my Poetry project as an example, and some pictures of my school and my learners… all through the theme of "A Typical Day in The Future." I'll be giving essentially the same presentation on Wednesday, but at my host school. Now that I think about it, I've never really given a formal presentation to adults before (other than the 10-minute PowerPoint I give about myself on Back-to-School Night!) but I'm not really nervous. After all, why should I get nervous about talking about what I do every single day of my normal life?

The past two weeks or so, I've really felt like I've gotten the hang of India and feel comfortable getting here and there and dealing with the everyday. I have taken up certain Hindi expressions and a couple typically-Indian hand gestures. There are things I've come to expect, like that auto drivers are always going to try to talk you into going anywhere except where you told them you want to go and that at every eating establishment the vegetarian items are clearly labeled. I've also really gotten used to having someone else make my bed and clean my bathroom every day and bring me breakfast! It will be quite an adjustment to return to the States and my everyday responsibilities and routines. Where I won't have time to read the paper every day but I will be able to watch all of the TV I've missed during the last month. I've been hearing that "reverse culture shock" is more difficult and jarring than actual culture shock- and I'm doing what I can in these last days to mentally prepare for the return home.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Adventures and New Mates

Yesterday Beth, Diane, and I went over to the Taj Mahal pool for some much-needed relaxation. The sky was clear for once, the sun was out, and it was very hot but the pool was perfectly refreshing. We arrived there around 4:30, and a really nice Australian guy named Phil struck up a conversation with me and Beth. We sat in the pool and talked for hours, enjoying a couple cocktails, and comparing cultures. Eventually, Phil's girlfriend Jackie joined us. They both work for the Department of Defense, and have spent a lot of time traveling and living abroad for work, so they had a lot of interesting stories.

Americans definitely don't travel to faraway places like people from other countries do, that's for sure. I've been to a bunch of places, and so have most of my friends, but did you know that fewer than 20% of Americans hold passports? I guess things are just different in America- not only do we have less time off work than people in other countries, but also, the cost of living in America is so high. I've usually had the time but not the money- the only reason why I'm here this summer is that my expenses are paid by someone else and I can afford not to teach summer school or take a summer job!

But I digress. As it happens, it was Phil and Jackie's last night in Delhi and they wanted to go out for a nice dinner, and they invited us along with them! Around 9pm we parted ways to dash back to the hotel and get ready, and then we met them back at the Taj Mahal, where they had a driver to take us over to the restaurant, and a reservation. Pretty sweet!

We went to a restaurant called Bukhara, which is still well-known for being the place President Clinton ate at three times when he visited India ten years ago. It's in a posh hotel- the InterContinental- and it was quite exciting. The restaurant is traditional Indian kebab, which I'd never had before, and it was delicious. If I tried to describe it, I would fail, but I ate a ton of delicious food last night. It was so enjoyable, as was the company; my most expensive meal in Delhi so far and it was completely worth every rupee! If you are ever in Delhi you must try Bukhara.

Around 1am we got back to the hotel and I felt completely relaxed and refreshed and got a good night's sleep. Of course, I'm used to waking up around 5:30 or 5:45 to get to school by the time it starts at 7, so even sleeping until 8:30 this morning seemed like a luxury beyond compare.

I've been putzing around the hotel all day- going to drop off my laundry (I told a little white lie- that I was leaving on Wednesday- so that I could be sure to get it back on time!) and working out at the gym and putting together a PowerPoint and watching TV and reading… it's been very relaxing, but also somewhat productive. In a little while, some of us are going to Akshardham Temple, a Hindu temple with a laser light show and rides. Yes, rides.

Not sure what the evening will bring but I do know I will have some sort of adventure, as long as my good luck continues to hold out.

Cheers to my new "mates" Jackie and Phil!

Friday, August 6, 2010

Auto adventures

Last night our group was invited to a farewell dinner to honor the Fulbright-Hays fellows who are heading to the airport today. It was nice to meet other Americans- some of them were even from my area, so we were able to exchange contact information- and hear about their trip. What an experience! For the past 4 or 5 weeks these Elementary school teachers have been on a whirlwind tour of India, visiting several different cities and learning about different cultural traditions in all the various regions of the country. They have had the opportunity to visit a variety of schools as well. After they return home, they will submit curriculum units written with the intention of teaching their students about the culture of India. Fulbright-Hays runs a number of programs in a variety of countries, and somebody told me that the list for next year includes Argentina and Vietnam. It sounds like an amazing experience!

We also met a bunch of Fulbright-Nehru scholars who just finished a month of intensive Hindi training. They are all recent college graduates who will be acting as English teaching assistants for the next 8 months in various schools in Delhi. I talked to one guy from Philadelphia who, as it happens, knows my ex boyfriend's nephew. So that was weird. It always pays to play the "Do you know So-and-So?" game! The world is quite small. I wasn't sure whether I was going to have fun at this dinner or whether it was going to be some kind of boring formal event with a bunch of dull speeches, but I think we all ended up having a blast. It was nice to intermingle with all these interesting people and hear about their experiences. I was sorry that we didn't have more time with them, but I did exchange contact info with a couple folks so we'll see about a stateside gathering.

My days at KV No. 2 are drawing to a close, and the time I had is even less than I thought it would be due to missing time there for presentations and demonstration lessons at other schools. So, today we were granted leave from our regular schools to visit a Navyug School. The Navyug Schools are a network of government funded schools which cater to low-income students who demonstrate academic potential. The school we visited was small by Indian standards (about 550 students) and provided lunch (known here as "mid-day meal") free of charge to students.

I taught a class of 7th graders about the William Carlos Williams poem "This is just to say." This poem is one of my all-time favorites and my American students have invariably responded well to it, so I thought I would try out the lesson on an Indian classroom. I am happy to say that it went quite well- though the students were quiet and shy at first, they gradually warmed up to me and became engaged in the writing activity. I am really looking forward to reading their poems in detail and sharing them next year when I teach the poem during our poetry unit!

We also got shown around the school and definitely the highlight was watching a judo class. Yes, judo. These kids were dropping the judo thunder on each other like nothing I have ever seen. I took a lot of pictures, don't worry. It completely took me by surprise- as this is the first phys ed activity I've seen in my time here. I saw the music and art rooms, special project rooms, and other school facilities. The school was quiet and clean and the students very well-behaved. Walking around the building it seemed like every aspect of what they do during the day was to encourage their students' growth academically, socially, personally, and culturally.

On the way back to the hotel, our auto rickshaw broke down. It just sort of kept stalling out and the driver had to rock it back and forth with his feet to get going again. Eventually, the driver got out a couple times to try to fix whatever was wrong with some wire (I couldn't really see what he was doing) and then gave up. It was sort of a combination of Fred Flinstone and McGyver with unsuccessful results. I have had pretty rotten auto luck lately- maybe I should just stick to the reliable (but much more expensive) taxis for the next week. Autos are fun and all but.... sometimes such a hassle!

Anyway, speaking of reliable transportation, I'll be taking advantage of the complimentary car service and heading over to the Taj Mahal hotel in a couple of hours for some much needed relaxation.

As for the weekend, it's our last in India and I can't believe it. It's nearly impossible to believe that four weeks ago today I left Philadelphia to travel to DC for orientation. I have learned so much, and I know that I will continue to learn during my last week here. But to be honest, I am just about ready to come home- I miss my house, my cats, and most importantly my many loved ones!

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

The best cooks in India...

Before embarking on this program we were told several times to be flexible. I am now getting several opportunities to be this way. For one, the date and time for one of my presentations has changed twice in the past 24 hours, and for two, as for the demo lesson I am giving on Friday, I am supposed to be given a topic but haven't yet. I kind of figured this would happen at some point or another so none of this is truly a surprise.

These last minute changes are certainly not worth worrying about. I'm going to do a lesson on poetry, a lesson I've taught several times before to all different groups of American students with great success, so I am confident that will go quite well. And as for the presentation, I'll throw a PowerPoint and some notes together over the weekend. I only feel bad because I've had to ask the Vice Principal at my school three separate times for permission to be absent from my host school, and I know my Vice Principal is very busy with other more important things.

This is sort of how India is. Things tend to change at the last minute and often it's hard to get a straight answer from anybody. It is sort of frustrating for someone like me- I am a planner and like having things settled and absolutely hate any kind of uncertainty when it comes to the itinerary. Perhaps my coming to India, where things are the way they are, is an opportunity to step out of my comfort zone and let fate handle things.

I spent some time in the "Gents Staff Room" today talking with the male teachers about the American educational system. It was very interesting to hear their questions. They wanted to know about how well-informed American students are about current events, and I had to admit that I don't think most American teenagers pay attention to the news. On the contrary, the students I've met in India heavily follow Indian politics and world events and have strong opinions on everything. I thought it was sort of a universal thing to be self-centered as a teenager, to not care to look beyond your own experiences, so seeing other types of kids is a very nice learning experience for me. The "gents" also wanted to know about teachers' level of esteem in America and whether women find teachers acceptable grooms. (I didn't ask whether any of these men were married, mind you). But since I hadn't spent any time in the Gents room until today, it was nice to have that experience and everybody was really sweet and curious to know all sorts of things. I only wish we had had more time to talk- the bell rang and everybody was scattered in different directions to teach.

Last night Beth and I went over to Safdarjung Enclave, where one of her teacher friends, Shalini, lives. To make a long story short, Shalini did a 6 month Fulbright exchange with this woman Breanna, who did the program last year with Beth. I met Breanna when I was in DC for the pre-trip orientation a few weeks ago. Anyway, Beth and I had been wanting stainless steel ware: I wanted some tiffins and she wanted some dishes. Shalini had some free time and knew of a good place right in her neighborhood, so we met her at her place and made it all happen.

So I didn't get the exact tiffins I was looking for, but I am happy with my purchases. In addition to a couple nesting tiffins, I got some small and large plates, some little bowls for soup, some littler bowls for pickle or chutney, and a thali. High quality, great prices, how could I go wrong?

This trip has really inspired me to want to learn more about different types of cooking. I love to cook and can follow a recipe, but I'm completely ignorant when it comes to any type of traditional cuisine. I'm interested in learning the principles, techniques, and theories behind different types of Indian cooking- and there are many different types! I'm hoping to pick up some books on this when I get home- not just cookbooks, but books that go into detail about techniques and why certain ingredients are preferred over others in certain regions of India.

But perhaps the REAL reason why I want to learn more about Indian cooking is that I have eaten some of the best food in the world over the past few days. And it hasn't come from 5 star restaurants. It has come from the kitchens of the teachers at my school! Now that they actually believe what I've been telling them since we met- that I love Indian food- a few of the ladies have been bringing food for me. Not "have a bite of this" (which had been happening all along) but "I made you this tiffin." So today I probably ate enough for 4 meals, within the space of a couple hours. I thought I would burst but any pounds gained on this trip will be from lovingly prepared delicious Indian food given to me by caring and wonderful people- just another souvenir!

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Success!

8/3/10 3pm

Just a short entry as I'm headed out to get some stainless still ware (tiffins and such) in a few minutes.

I had some souvenir-buying success yesterday at Dilli Haat, the wonderful craft market I hope to have time to return to before going back to Philadelphia. I had been searching high and low for some perfect gifts and found some! But in the interest of having things be a surprise, I am not going to reveal my purchases.

I'm starting to receive emails from SOTF about plans for the upcoming year. I'm so immersed in India that it's strange to read them and think about what the next school year will bring, but I guess it's high time I make some mental notes considering I'll be home in less than two weeks and starting PD shortly thereafter. Although I love being here in India, I have really been missing my home school, my team of educators, and my learners. From the emails, I know that some big changes are ahead, and I am excited about what I can learn from it all. Notice I didn't say I was excited about the changes- because I don't know enough at this point, and there always seem to be pros and cons of every change. Working in Philadelphia you kind of learn quickly to weather the changes and hope for the best... and I think aspects of next year are sort of going to be like that. But like I said, it's too early to tell.

But the big news (for someone like me who gets very anxious about air travel and making connecting flights) is that I have rebooked my return trip so that I can fly directly from Frankfurt to Philadelphia, bypassing Dulles. This means I only have one connection to make instead of two, and the one layover is nice and long so even if my flight out of Delhi gets a bit delayed (as it might, considering they just opened a new international terminal that is fraught with snags) I will have nothing to worry about. I'll only get home an hour earlier but the convenience and peace of mind is worth the extra fees!

Off to get some tiffins!

Monday, August 2, 2010

Once Upon a Time in Hindi

8/2/10 3:30pm

I know everybody is talking about how great Inception is, and maybe I will see that when I'm here, but I am so glad Beth and I went to see Once Upon a Time in Mumbaai yesterday! As it happens, Bollywood films are actually fairly easy to follow without subtitles. The plot was chronological (for the most part) and straightforward, with really great music and when it comes out on DVD in America I would like to see it again (this time with subtitles of course)!

Going to the movies in India is a lot of fun. The theater we went to had assigned seats and a snack bar with actual food, no candy, and everything was actually affordable (we spent about $10 US each on our ticket plus a snack and soda). There's an intermission halfway through the movie, too. The picture quality and sound were both excellent. However, one thing remained essentially the same: people talking on their cell phones and texting during the movie! Other than those brief conversations, though, there wasn't really the kind of talking and yelling you can encounter sometimes at the movies in Philadelphia.

I've had incredible luck with the weather, specifically the rain. Last night as soon as we got into our auto it started pouring, and then by the time we got back to the hotel about 15 minutes later the rain had stopped. I got splashed a little bit because auto rickshaws are open on the sides, but it wasn't anything ridiculous.

The big story in the newspaper here is that the city of Delhi is not going to be ready to host the Commonwealth Games in October. It seems that nearly every construction project is behind schedule and all the agencies are blaming each other about whose fault that is. Today I woke up to read about yet another building that was leaking, showing pictures of water pouring down from the ceiling of some room- and the official who was questioned about it actually said that it wasn't actually a leak, it was a part of the building plan: a "rainwater collection system" that would make the building more eco-friendly! I thought this was pretty entertaining and worth sharing- it just goes to show that wherever you are in the world, when there is a problem everybody wants to cast blame on somebody else, and everybody wants to spin it their way.

Today at school, the monkey made another appearance. He was on the terrace during morning assembly and I couldn't stop laughing. I thought the principal was going to yell at me or something in front of all the students but maybe he gave me a reprieve because I'm a foreigner. When we got back into the building and the ladies' staff room, we noticed that he had knocked over a bunch of stuff and eaten some food. He made a couple small messes and luckily it wasn't a huge deal. Monkeys are so commonplace here that they are viewed as annoying pests, but like I wrote when I first got here, I can't help but see them as mischievous little people! I don't think that conception is going to change by the time I leave. But this monkey in particular has been kind of a problem at the school because he is always lurking around, and given that the school is all open-air, he can kind of get wherever he wants to get if he thinks hard enough about it.

Also, yesterday was Friendship Day, and I got friendship bracelets from some students, plus a card. I thought it was really sweet of these kids to give me presents that their friends had obviously given them. I am constantly amazed at the generosity of the people I meet here. Like all the small tokens of appreciation and affection I've received during my time here, I will certainly treasure these forever.

Going to a craft market in a bit, hopefully to pick up some nice gifts for people (including myself). I have a couple things on my list but of course, I'm open to all the possibilities that I'm sure to encounter! I've heard great things about this particular spot, and I love picking out presents for people so it's sure to be a great time.

This week will be a busy one. Wednesday we have our weekly meeting, and then Thursday I'll be sharing in an hour-long presentation to other KV teachers about education and teaching strategies in America. On Thursday night, we are attending a fancy dinner to honor a group of Fulbright Scholars, and then on Friday I'll be teaching a demonstration lesson at a magnet school. Mind you, I haven't started preparing for either presentation. And then it'll be our last weekend in India; I'll have two days off, which will surely be full of more shopping, sightseeing, and maybe some preliminary packing (so I can see how big of a second suitcase I need to buy). Hard to believe: the next week of my life is already all planned out and it's only Monday- I'm certainly not this busy most of the time when I'm in Philadelphia. But I'm glad to be given so many opportunities to interact with other teachers here, and well, I'll get to sleep on the plane.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Reggae Rajahs

8/1/10 2pm

Yesterday I was supposed to have my laundry delivered to me here at the hotel. I'd been hand-washing and re-wearing (um, mostly the latter, I'll admit) for three weeks but given the humidity here, things just weren't quite getting dry. But the hotel laundry is exorbitant: about $1.50 to wash ONE PAIR of underwear. Are you kidding me? So, I found a laundry spot around the corner and dropped my stuff off Wednesday. And they were supposed to deliver it "after 6:30" yesterday (this seemed like a long time to me) but what does that really mean?

Around 8 I started getting nervous and called the number on the receipt. Of course, they spoke exactly zero English, except to say "wrong number" and hang up. Thank goodness for the Taj Ambassador- they called the number for me, were re-directed to another number, got some address where my clean laundry was, and then they actually sent someone over (with my money) to pay for and pick up my laundry.

About 20 minutes later the doorbell to my room rang and there it was. Everything was individually wrapped in plastic and each item was labeled with a tracking number. The tshirts had cardboard backing and were folded perfectly. My kurtis were all on hangers and had been nicely ironed. My old and raggedy pajama pants were even on a hanger. Don't worry, I took pictures.

So although it was a bit of a headache and took days longer than I would expect it to, I couldn't get over how everything was so perfectly folded and wrapped and packaged that I definitely plan on sending my stuff there again when it's time. What an experience. India is full of wonders.

Anyway, then Beth and I went out and met up with our friends Akshat and Param. We had a late dinner and then went over to Cafe Oz to see the "Reggae Rajahs." These guys were not very good DJ's and I am not a fan of reggae by any means but it was a totally hilarious experience because it was all these people trying to be Jamaican in the middle of India. I really, really, really, REALLY wish I had brought my camera with me- but I don't even know if pictures would capture the ridiculousness of the setting. Even better than the setting or the "music"- the place was full of young white American/European hippies. With dreads. And backpacks. And attitudes. I remember being a young white worldwide tourist, and seeing their energy and silliness made me nostalgic for my time on Semester at Sea. At the same time it made me so thankful to be older and wiser! It was a good evening and we didn't get back to the hotel until after 1am.

Today is my ONE day off and I enjoyed the opportunity to sleep in! The fact that there was a giant thunderstorm this morning really helped me not feel guilty about my decision not to get up and do sightseeing. I skipped the hotel breakfast and went to the gym for a workout, appreciating the sensation of wearing clean workout clothes. Had McDonald's for lunch- the Paneer Salsa Wrap was AMAZING- and now I'm doing my internet hour before I return to my book.

It's Friendship Day, too, which means, um, I guess people are celebrating friendship. I'm not sure where this holiday originated but apparently it's very popular here, to the point where kids are actually allowed to wear their Friendship Day bracelets to school- ordinarily something like this would be forbidden because it's not part of the uniform. Friendship Day also means that StarWorld, one of the English channels we get here at the hotel, is having a Friends marathon.

Later today I'm going to the movies to see "Once Upon a Time in Mumbai" which is a new and popular movie. In Hindi. Going to the movies in India is apparently quite different from going in America, so I am looking forward to the experience. A few people from our group have been to the movies to see American movies but I would much rather have the true Indian experience- after all, I can see Inception and Twilight Eclipse when I get back home!

But about the movie, I went down to the lobby a few minutes ago to ask which was the closest movie theater, figuring that I would just go early and get tickets- and it's ending up that the hotel is sending a car over to buy our tickets early in case the show sells out (Sunday is the big movie day here in Delhi I guess). What's with the hotel doing all this nice stuff for us? First my laundry and now the movie tickets- they really do go out of their way here to make sure you are comfortable and that everything works out accordingly. I will certainly miss all the things they have done for me and our group to ensure we have a comfortable experience here. Considering the chaos of Delhi and of India in general, the Taj Ambassador is a welcome oasis.

Well, there's a long list of things I'm missing and can't wait to return to (like having ice in my drinks) but the list of things I will miss a whole lot is of almost equal length. Still, there's no place like home- and despite the wonderful time I'm having, I am already looking forward to getting there.